Here it is, a full account of my work out in Portugal in diary form, hope you enjoy reading it almost as much as I did being there.
The cottage is nice inside but too dark to tell from the outside. I have my own room with an en-suite and air conditioning which is handy to have as it’s reading 25oC on my thermometer and its 00:55hrs! There are a lot of spiders in here and I don't know if they are harmful or not, lets hope not.
Day 2 - 28/6/11 - Introduction
After a hot night, which I slept like a log, I unpacked and ate the “emergency ration breakfast” provided to us by Inês and Ana. At 10:30 Ana arrived at the cottage and introduced us to radio tracking which seems straight forward at the moment. We will see if this is the case when it is applied in the field.
We were then driven out to a nest box which had tagged owls in to give us a live demonstration of the tracking equipment in action. The area is very flat and looks a bit like Hopefield in South Africa. There are lots of nice bright butterflies in the fields here.
After this we drove to Porto Alto for lunch which was nice as well as cheap. Next stop was Freeport, the big outlet village, then to the supermarket. We stocked up and I found fanta grape (uva) and Ceres mango juice. Driving around we saw a lot of storks.
We spent the rest of the evening at the cottage listening to Portuguese learning C.D’s, reading and talking. I did a bit of birding seeing a booted eagle and a shrike.
Day 3 - 29/6/11 - Part 1:Baby Owls
After a breakfast with mango juice from Ceres, Inês took us to the military base. A soldier of a high rank (don’t know which) drove us around in a little 4X4 toyota. the area is a big dusty empty area much like the Western Cape of South Africa (but not as nice).
We stopped at a tower which Inês and Sam climbed up to collect 3 young barn owls who where almost ready to fledge. They where really cute! Inês ringed them, weighed and measured and took feathers for D.N.A. I helped Inês return them to the tower and collect a small dead owl.
We moved to another building and did the same again with 3 owls a few days younger (the first 3 were about 50 days old). One had a tutu of baby feathers. I measured the wing of one owl. The next nest we visited had newly hatched owls so we didn't take any data. As we took photos the mother appeared and we promptly left. We are doing night tracking later.
Day 3 - 29/6/11 - Part 2: Radio Tracking
After returning to the cottage , showering and eating we waited for Ana and Inês to arrive. We saw a few hare close to the cottage. The sky at sunset was the lilac purple “desert sky” colour and nice to see again.
Day 7 - 3/7/11 - Boar Trackers
Another free day in which we decided to explore, on a mini safari, the Companhia das Lezirias. We found a map of the place in a cupboard and headed to a dam which is supposed to be a site for boars and otters (although on the key they look like dinosaurs.
We got to the dam which was low in water and walked along the “beach”. In the sand we found lots of tracks which we later identified as boars, otters, mongoose and genet. We turned back as the road got to sandy to drive and looked for a hide. We found the road blocked by a barbed wire fence. We decided to look for flamingoes by the rice fields. We saw none. We did however see lots of storks and purple heron. One we even saw catch a crayfish. On the way back we saw some big bulls used for bullfighting. We then returned to the house for a relaxing evening and tea.
Day 8 - 4/7/11 - Coruche
This morning we met Ana and went to Coruche, where Ana and Inês live. The town, as we would call it but they call a village, is on the river and very traditional. While we sorted the plan we drank by the river and saw an osprey attempt to catch a fish and fail. We left Inês in town to do computer stuff and we went to a farm out of town.
Here we hoped to tag a nest of owls. To get to the barn we had to climb a fence into a horse paddock whose occupants looked at us somewhat confused. The owl was unfortunately too young so we left him after taking a few photos. He was a big white fur-ball. We found some beautiful adult feathers which I kept. We then drove to Ana’s house and saw a bee-eater. Ana’s house was very nice both inside and out and she has a big soft dog named Sebastien. We then went to a viewpoint and had a quick tour of the town. On the way back a mongoose ran across the road in front of us.
Tonight Sam and I tracked alone. At one point the guards came and neither spoke each others language so we said “Boa Noite” and went on with our work. The owls stayed put in the nest all night. One untagged owl flew at me screeching. Towards the end of the night owl 30 disappeared so we drove around to look for him. We eventually found him later.
Day 9 - 5/7/11 - Villa Franca
Today we went back to the city of Villa Franca which we had been warned wasn’t very nice. We got to the centre and found cheap parking. The place was a pleasant surprise with little side streets with cobbled roads and patterned tile walled buildings. For lunch we tried a little restaurant in a courtyard with a canvas roof. I tried sardines which still had the heads on but tasted great non-the-less. We then visited the tourist information center and found a few places to visit.
In the streets a series of wooden gates cross junctions of the main street. This is for when the bulls run in the streets. This happened last week but we may be able to see it elsewhere. We paid another visit to the supermarket and got my kettle. We then had a rest before heading out alone to track again.
It was very cold and windy with the owls staying mostly on the nest. One disappeared, owl 31, so we set off in order to track her down. We never found her but did see some other owls. One was “dancing” by bobbing up and down and then stretching its wings and legs. We also saw 2 owls mate. Before leaving a fox crossed the road and reminded me of One-eye, the wild fox I know in Cornwall.
Day 10 - 6/7/11 - Great Complications
After a lie in Ana and Inês arrived with some money, a bird guide, gate card, and watchie talkies (walkie talkie watches). They had been to check on some owl boxes and found a kestrel had taken up home in one with some babies.
The walkie talkie watches had a test run which was a disappointment and struggled at just 500m although they were supposed to have a range of 7km. We put this down to the trees in the area and decided that we wold get better results in the flat open study area. How wrong we were.
Sam and I had another night of tracking alone as Inês had a doctors appointment at night, which seemed an odd time to have one, and Ana’s son was not well. Before heading out we met the vet, Helena, who is also staying here at the cottage temporarily but due to our odd hours we had yet to meet. She was friendly and will maybe show us around.
We needed fuel which presented us with the first problem.We couldn’t use the pump so asked the attendant, who didn’t speak English, for assistance. We eventually sorted it and got the fuel. When we got to the field we took one reading, went our set distances apart and the watchie talkies didn’t work. We then tried the normal ones. They died of low battery. W decided to return to the garage once again. We found the same man still on duty. We tried to ask him if he had batteries but failed so showed him a battery. He just shook his head.
We gave Inês a call and she decided that since nowhere around here would be open at 23:00 to call it a night. In a way we where happy as we got to rest before tomorrows first dusk till dawn shift.
The other day we saw a car parked on the edge of the cops and wondered what they where doing. It turns out that the fields have giant watering systems that move around the field watering the crops and also spraying the roads. They where washing the car. We had wanted to try and tonight as we pulled in it was back in a position for us to try. It did a really good job. Just at the end of the drive we nearly ran a barn owl over. He was just sitting in the road looking at us, no doubt having watched us wash the car.
Day 11 - 7/7/11 - Alochete
Today we awoke earlier than previous days but found it grey, windy and cold, so much so that today was the first day that I have had to eat my breakfast indoors. Because of the weather we decided to go to Europe's largest retail park at Freeport. I bought here a metal BBQ for €3, not bad as a disposable one was €2.50.
After here we got hungry so decided to find some food in the nearby town of Alochete. We wondered around looking for a place to eat and saw lots of nice little traditional tilled houses. We went along the river front (which the tide was out) and got good views of Lisbon. We finally settled on a really good steak to eat.
After this we came back and rested ready for the night. After a sleep we found plans had changed and we only had a short night until around 02:00. We got there and it was the worst mosquito night ever In the fading light of the sunset we saw great clouds like smoke hanging over the waterways. I got bitten more times tonight that the whole time I have been here combined. On the way back we counted only 7 owls, a low number as we usually see at least between 10-15.
Day 12 - 8/7/11 - Night Watch
Not much happened today as we were going to do a night shift, and this time we did. We spent the whole day resting. We got to the field, this time with Ana accompanying us, at dusk around 21:00.
Not much happened other than the tracking. We had a 1hr break and looked for some food but nowhere was open. Next time we will spend the break sleeping. There where so many mossies out that I am bit over, especially my right knee which looks as if I have chicken pox.
We stayed until dawns early light washed the sky an apple green at 05:20. We drove back and hit the hay. We are off to Coruche for the weekend to see Inês play in a band. I got to bed at 06:05 with the day light breaking and the birds singing in the new day.
Day 13 - 9/7/11 - Coruche at Night
After the night shift we woke at 2pm and headed off to Coruche to watch Inês band. Ana had been kind enough to ask us to stay over at hers so on arrival we dropped off our bedding and clothes and headed out.
The first port of call was Ana’s husbands parents weekend house. On the way up we saw her husband, Rodolfo, and the first sight of him we had was him at full speed drifting a quad bike down the road. We found from Ana that this is normal for him. We met the family and Lawrenco, Ana’s son. He was shy at first but after a sardine lunch I got in the pool and he wanted to play. The house here is a traditional Portuguese farm which grows all its own fruit, veg and herbs.
Later that evening we went to the town square which sits on the river. We had a lunch of snails which where surprisingly good. Rodolfo kept getting me different drinks to try and I eventually red wine and 7up, of which he kept getting me all night.
We went to see Inês play after lunch and met her son Za. Za is about a year older than Lawrenco who himself is about 2 years old but they get on well. After the concert Sam, Rodolfo and I went into Coruche for drinks while Ana took Lawrenco home. There are only 2 places to drink in Coruche, the best of which had darts which I kept beating Rodolfo at. After here we went to a disco which was closed. We eventually got in after a good night at 5.30am.
Inês' Band playing by the bullring
Day 14 - 10/7/11 - BBQ
We all woke at midday feeling ill except for Ana. I went o the toilet and heard Lawrenco shouting me. He was waiting by the door wanting to show me his toys. After seeing the toys and breakfast we returned to the weekend house for lunch. Rodolfos whole family including his grandparents turned up as well as Anas dad.
We had a meat stew which was good then went in the 4X4 along some dirt roads to a place that translates as “Rose Mud”. We had a coffee (i had a cola) and went back to Ana’s for a siesta. We got into the house where Lawrenco grabbed my hand and led me to the sofa to put the film “Cars” on, only it was dubbed into Portuguese. After that “Star Wars” came on (this time in English) and I fell asleep (as did everyone else).
After our sleep Ana and Sam prepared tea while Rodolfo set up the BBQ. I looked after Lawrenco in the garden who is very funny and full of energy. Before the food was ready Inês, her husband Normando, and son Za who had been invited arrived. I was then looking after both Lawrenco and Za. Za is very well behaved and understands the concept of sharing but Lawrenco doesn't, always wanting what Za has.
The food was really good, mostly pork, and an egg tomato thing, also good. Pudding was a sort of Portuguese version of bread and butter pudding which Normando had prepared. Again very good food.
Day 15 - 11/7/11 - Ringing an Owl
Today the vets joined us to take some blood samples from the owls. We went to pick up Inês before heading off. Her house is very nice with what looks like a lot of land.
The first owls where near our tracking site and will hopefully be fitted with transmitters in a few weeks time, but at the moment they are much to small. The vets took samples from the wings or legs. While this was happening a herd of friendly horses came over to see what was going on. One took a great deal of interest in his own reflection in our cars window.
The next owls where bigger and the same process was applied. One bold owl flew out of the barn and away. To stop anymore owls making a break for freedom I held a sheet across the door. One owl remained high on the rafters out of reach so he too remained un-sampled.
The next site was a nice old abandoned church. The owls had nested on the stairs so I accompanied Ana to collect them, with one owl one falling down the stairs onto my shoe. The same sampling process was carried out on these 3 owls along with metal I.D rings attached to the legs. Here I had a chance to try this myself.
I had to hold the owl, place him between my legs (without squashing him), watch the talons, place a numbered metal ring in pliers and squeeze gently. I have now ringed an owl, number 35346, or by the unofficial name of Churchill (since he lives in a church).
That night we went tracking only to find Ana had kept the G.P.S in Coruche so we just recorded the times the owls left the nest. One owl hasn't left for a few days and is starting to worry us.
Me ringing Churchill
Day 16 - 12/7/11 - Montijo
This morning we went back to the military base to ring some more owls with Ana. We met the same soldier who drove us last time and also a wildlife photographer who gave me some handy tips. The first owl was the baby who we didn't ring last time on 29th June. He was now much bigger and old enough for a ring.
Ana caught the bird and passed it over to Sam. Sam then ringed her owl and named it Sgt. Spike as he had spiky head feathers and was born on a military base. The other birds we where to ring had already fledged and left so our work was done.
That afternoon we went to a nearby small city called Montijo. Its an odd place with lots of tower block apartments and a small main street. The main street had speakers along it playing music out to the city as you walked along. The whole place had an odd indescribable feel to it, something just didn't seem right but what it was is impossible to say.
In the evening the wind picked up and by the time we entered the field it was blowing a gale. It was cold but fortunately the mossies had gone. Unfortunately after 1 1/2 hours the walkie talkies died. The owls had stayed in the nest all night up until this point and I don't blame them.
Day 17 - 13/7/11 - Lisbon With Ana
This morning we had news that Ana was going to take us into Lisbon for the day. She arrived with Lawrenco as his daycare was closed, which made the day a bit more lively than normal with Ana constantly on her toes running after him.
We had lunch near the bullring where we met Anas friend who is also Lawrenco’s god mother. I had a really good prawn omelette. After this we drove a bit of Lisbon and ended on the Tagus River front where we had an ice cream. We had great views of the Tagus river and the Vasco de Gama bridge. We noticed that many of the buildings are odd shaped, like that of a boats sail.
Radio tracking this night was not at the usual time of 10pm-2am but 2am-6am. So it was an early night after returning for Lisbon before tracking. We didn’t go out later as when we woke at 1am it was gale force wind and no good for tracking owls.
Day 18 - 14/7/11 - Sommora
We hadn't anything planned today so mostly had a lazy morning. In the afternoon we took a short drive to the nearby town of Sommora, which we had drove through the other day on the way back from Coruche. We were very disappointed with the place as it had looked nice but it was basically houses and truckers cafes.
We came home after a visit to the supermarket, for more fanta grape, to lie in the sun. At the supermarket we bought a Portuguese version of a milk tart which was great and fanta pineapple which was ok but not as good as the awesome fanta grape.
Tonight the shift is again 2am-6am no matter what the weather is like we are going out. So it was bed early again to be up in time.
Day 19 - 15/7/11 - Daybreaks and Mosquitoes Swarm
The tracking this morning went very well with all owls taking a flight even owl 30 who we had been worrying about for not leaving for a while. We had no problems with equipment either. Even the mosquitoes behaved up until the final hour.
Just as dawn broke, leaving the sky a faded yellow pink with the birds beginning to sing, the mosquitoes came out in force. It seemed a lot worse as we could see them in the early morning light. It looked like the whole area had caught fire and this was the smoke of the dying flames.
On returning to the house and sleeping until midday I woke to possibly the hottest day so far. We couldn't leave the house as we needed fuel which we get from Ana or Inês, so we had a relaxing day in the sun reading. Tonights shift is a 10pm to 2am then we are heading to Lisbon for the weekend.
We did a 2 hour owl transect which involves marking every owls seen with a G.P.S point and also its behaviour such as flying or perched. We counted over 25 in this period. This was done to see if a new RADAR system should be used and it seems it will be due to the high numbers.
Day 20 - 16/7/11 - Lisbon Weekend (Saturday)
This morning we left the car in Porto Alto and caught the bus into Lisbon for the weekend. It felt like a mini holiday. In Lisbon we took the metro underground to the main area of Lisbon. From here it was just a 5 minute walk to the hostel. We Stayed in a nice hostel called Lisbon Old town Hostel.
After signing in we left most of our belongings in a locker, except cameras and wallets, and headed into town. The people in the hostel recommended taking a tram to the castle area which we did. Riding the tram was a unique experience feeling like being on a train carriage with no train pulling it.
We saw a flea market and wondered round, not buying anything but planning to do so in August if we have any money left. For lunch I had a Portuguese bread beaten with egg, olive oil and prawns. It had a slight Indian taste to it.
We spent the rest of the day being tourists, taking photos and eating cakes. We headed back to the hostel to drop the cameras off and pick up our jackets. We then headed into the popular part of town for tea which had lots of street cafes. We went to a seafood one and I tried a sawfish steak. On the table next to us we met 2 French people about our age. We all went round the town for a few hours and had a fun night. We returned to the hostel tired out.
Lisbon tram
Day 21 - 17/7/11 - Lisbon Weekend (Sunday)
We woke this morning and had a quick breakfast with some Dutch people before getting back on the metro and heading for the aquarium. The aquarium sits on the bank of the Tagus river in the more modern area of Lisbon, the area we visited with Ana. Yesterday was very hot and sunny whereas today it is windy and overcast so it was nice to be indoors.
The main focus of the aquarium is a huge central tank with lots of viewing windows placed around the whole aquarium. the place is circular so the main tank is always on one side of you with other tanks on the other. the main tank had sharks of many species, barracuda, tuna, many small shoals, lots of big fish, rays, sunfish and a huge manta ray. Another highlight was the playful sea otters. They had 3 who lay floating on their backs, playing, diving, eating and cleaning.
After here we had lunch which was an all you can eat meat meal at a place named “Buffalo Grills”. As meat came out the ovens or off the BBQ’s the waiters would go from table to table piling your plate with food so you didn't have to move. It was all so good it was hard to say no to any more. Eventually I was so full I couldn't eat any more so we got the metro then the bus and headed home for a rest after a full weekend away.
Day 22 - 18/7/11 - Evora
Today we went to Evora with Inês and Ana who had a meeting at the University. We went to a campus 15 minutes from the city at a farm location. We met the rest of the team and had a look around while the meeting went on.
The place is old with a small aquaduct and a stone age rock house (now with a barn over it) a bit like a Flintstones house. We also saw an Egyptian vulture and later found out that Evora is a stronghold for the species in Portugal.
After the meeting Ana took us into the city as Inês had more work to do. The city of Evora is a UNESCO world heritage site with many old buildings. The city is within the old walls with each street branching from the center square. All the buildings here have to be lower than the height of the church so that from each roof you are able to see the churches of which there are many. One we went into was made up of the bones of people, over 5000 of them.
We picked Inês up and headed home to rest for a 2am-6am shift. On the way back it went overcast. By sunset it was very cloudy and looked like rain.
We got up at 1am and it hadn't rained so we headed out. Only 1 owl was on the nest when we arrived and after 20 minutes the clouds burst. It came down very heavy with lightning. As its a flat, treeless area and we were holding metal rods we decided it wasn't a good idea to stay and headed home.
Day 23 - 19/7/11 - Frank
Today we checked if the owls had left the nest but found that had not yet dispersed. We then carried on to Montijo shopping mall and I got a pocket radio to listen to at night. We also picked some stuff up for a BBQ.
We then came home as it was getting close to tea time. We had a rest before tea ready for tonight. Whilst resting I heard a strange sound coming down the corridor like a tap dancer. It was a dog! Helena, our vet friend who is also staying at the house, found him in the road and brought him home. He is a smallish spaniel/border collie cross and has been given the name Frank.He is really friendly and happily lies around not bothering you (unless you have food or call him).
We had trouble lighting the BBQ due to the wind so we built a windbreak with items from around the house. We still had trouble so Helena got a bottle of her veterinary alcohol and poured it on. That worked. We added some cork wood which smelt like refresher sweets when it was burning. We put steaks on the BBQ and did mash potato on the hob. It was nice but by the time we went to the owls we wanted to rest.
We had a normal night with no problems except a 5 minute band of interference. We saw the moon rise like a giant orange red fireball.
Day 24 - 20/7/11 - Fala Portuguese?
Today we went to Coruche for Portugeses lessons with one of Inês old school friends. We met Inês, Ana and Lawrenco for a coffee before our lesson. Lawrenco ate the packs of sugar for the coffee covering himself in it in the process.
We arrived at the ladies house and had lessons there into a room turned specially into a classroom. The lesson was difficult and non stop for 3 hours but was of benefit. We now know a bit and picked up the numbers with ease, very handy for at the supermarket. We have another lesson on Friday and will be tested.
We came home and rested for the nightshift. Helena brought back Frank who still has no home. On the way to the field a fox ran down the road by the house. The last few nights on the same road we have nearly run nightjars over who seem to have appeared in force this last week.
We had 1 owl all night up until sunrise where the other 2 suddenly appeared. The mossies stayed away mostly due to the wind but as we got into the car and drove off the wind died down and the dawn team appeared. The sunrise went from pink, to bright orange, followed by yellow and then an apple green.
Day 25 - 21/7/11 - Lazy Day, Few Owls
Today was a rest day. Frank stayed with us today and woke Sam up early for a walk. I didn't hear him and he was apparently barking. The rest of the day was spent reading our books, translating the projects newsletters into english and revising form yesterdays lesson.
We got to the owls for an early shift while Ana did a spotlight transect on the area. All owls where on the nest when we got there but by the time we had set up they had all gone and we lost contact with them. Ana did a drive around but found none of them. We got a few signals every so often but not many which left us not doing much making the night drag.
In the end Ana drove to Villa Franca’s hill to do a scan and we called it a night. The behaviour suggests that the owls are not far off from dispersing.
Day 26 - 22/7/11 - Baby Badger
Today we had our second Portuguese lesson in Coruche. We were tested on what we had learnt on Wednesday and remembered a surprising amount. We learnt even more and by the end our brains hurt. On the way home we saw a telegraph wire covered in beeeaters. We rested before heading out. This week the days seem to have merged due to the odd sleeping pattern.
We met Inês and Ana who went to Montijo to buy new radios while we went to the owls. They were not there. We searched and found none. Inês and Ana went to Villa Franca’s lookout and also found none.
While we waited Sam and I played I-spy, 20 questions and the alphabet game which kept us occupied and kept sending us into hysteric fits of laughter. We met Inês and Ana and decided they would search the River Tagus and we would search the Comphania ground by the house.
We found no owls here but did find owl 29 in Poto Alto by the DHL warehouse. At the Comphania we sa a little cute baby badger and many baby rabbits but no owls.
Day 27 - 23/7/11 - Cascais
Today we went to Cascais for a weekend at the beach. We drove to Porto Alto, got the bus to Lisbon, then the underground and finally the train to Cascais. On the way we saw lots of monuments, big buildings, a big red suspension bridge like San Francisco's golden gate and a giant Jesus like the one at Rio de Janeiro. The weather was very hot and we got a glimpse of the sea on the way which was crystal clear, a surprise since its so close to Lisbon.
We got to the station and found a book shop that sold a few English magazines so I picked up a copy of National Geographic. We walked the narrow streets of Cascais to the hostel which was a ladies house in which she had made spare rooms into dorm. Everyone here was friendly. We shared our dorm with and odd Irish woman.
As it was so hot we walked down to the beach through town and past the restaurants which made us hungry. We had lunch overlooking the beach. We then headed down onto the beach. On the beach I read for a while.
I got bored reading so decided to go in the sea which although looking inviting was icy cold. I managed to dip my head under but that was all so I got out and dried in the sun. I repeated this many times to cool down, one time standing in the ice long enough for a 5 second swim.
Eventually the sun lost its heat so we went for tea. We went to a seafood restaurant we had picked out earlier as the man outside said it sold chocos (cuttlefish), which we had wanted to try. We got there and found they didn’t. It was ok as they had octopus which we had also wanted to try and a prawn and squid kebab. The octopus was a disappointment with not much taste and a slimy body.
After this we went for a cider in an English pub then to a South African restaurant. They didn't do biltong or droewors so we didn't stay and wondered back to the hostel.
Day 28 - 24/7/11 - Thousands of Fish
Today we woke up to an even hotter day than we have had all the time we have been in Portugal. We heard about some gardens and a wall by some Dutch people staying at the hostel. We wondered around looking for these. We found the walls but they had work going on at them so we headed north following the sea. We saw a dock with crystal clear water and lots of fish of varying size from goldfish size to large salmon, some with stripes others bright blue fins.
As we walked we saw some big houses, a small market and large sea caves with lots of fisherman there. We came back and had lunch overlooking a small cove. We had chocos which where really good, like squid but with more flavour. After food we walked round the gardens which had lots of aloes then came to the cove for a rest. The sea here was a bit warmer than yesterday an I managed to stay warm for 2 minutes before leaving. The water was full of hundreds of tiny fish in large shoals. I wanted to stay in longer but it was too cold.
I saw I had burnt where the suncream had washed off so we left here, (and it was too hot to stay) and came home. We checked the owls who are all back and watched the new Pirates film at Freeport cinema.
Day 29 - 25/7/11 - All Night Watch
Today we had a rest day with just the supermarket as an activity as we expected to do a late 2am shift. While back at the house Ana and Inês came to drop the equipment of from the other night and told us this week is to be a week of full nights starting tonight.
We went to find the owls at dusk around 9pm and stayed all night until 6am. We got to the nest to find just 2 owls who we soon lost. We took a drive to find them heading for the river, then the road and finally back to the barn finding any on the way. We did find them back at the barn. We did some recordings until 1:30am then had an hours sleep.
We did more recordings until sunrise finding only one owl had returned to the nest even though we know the others are around since we made contact with them during the night. We came back for breakfast and bed at 7am for a daytime sleep.
Day 30 - 26/7/11 - Night Owls, No Owls
Today I slept until 4pm after the night shift and before another one tonight. A whole week of nights, we are ourselves becoming owls now. Even though it was 4pm when I got up it was too hot to sit outside so I read in the cool main room.
We got to the site that night to find only owl 29 and 30 on the nest. Its getting dark earlier now and lighter later which means longer shifts. Not long after we got there it went dark and the 2 owls flew off in opposite directions and we couldn't follow as we had arranged to meet Ana at 9:15pm at the barn.
It got to 10pm and with still no sign of Ana and her not answering her phone we attached the antenna to the roof and headed for the gate scanning for owls. We text Ana and still got no reply then just before the gate Ana appeared, an hour late, late even by Portuguese standards. Her excuse was the printer was not working to print us the data sheets we needed and we decided to let her off.
As we still had no owls when we got back to the barn Ana took us for a drive to show us some good places to scan. We started at the river in the south then headed up to Villa Franca and the view point. We had a good view of the study site here.
After this we drove down to the floodplain on the opposite side of the road to the study site. We drove around for a few hours and found no owls. We picked up 2 at the barn so Sam and I stayed to take some readings and Ana went home looking for the other 2 owls along the river. Then we had a sleep.
When we got up one of the radios was not working so we could not triangulate the owls positions. We just had to wait and see when and if the owls returned to the nest. In the end only one owl, 29, was back on the nest when the sun was up. After this it was unlikely that anymore would return so we headed home.
On the way we saw even more mossies than before. At one point the swarm was so thick it was black, not letting you see through it. It looked like a tornado in the road. We were glad to be in the car and going home.
Day 31 - 27/7/11 - City Owl
Today i woke a little earlier at 3pm although we still had a full night ahead. The heat was almost unbearable and you could feel the dryness of the air when you breathed in. We set off before sunset to get to the nest as the owls left but Sam forgot her head torch and we had to go back for it. By the time we got to the nest it was dark and they had all gone. We did pick up a hunting signal so took an hours worth of recordings before the owl rested in a tree.
We set off to find more owls and found another in a different tree so noted the location and headed to Villa France. We were surprised to find owl 30 in the middle of the small city. We went back to the nest and obtained some more hunting data before we finally lost the owls again. We waited in the car next to the nest, the cars multidirectional antenna scanning, until sunrise. Only owl 29 came back and by this time we were ready for bed so headed home.
Day 32 - 28/7/11 - Spotlight Transect
I woke to find the house busy. The cleaner and manager had come to prepare the house for a group of vets who will be staying here. Today we were both tired and the hot weather didn’t help so we sat inside after a while.Not long before we went for the owls a workforce appeared to make a roof for the verandah. They worked fast as it was done when we got back later.
The sunset tonight was amazing with a big orange ball, that was not too intense to look directly at, dipping behind the hills. We got to the site to find only 29 at the nest but this was as expected as she was the only one to return last night. She flew away and we couldn’t follow as the petrol light was on. Luckily we had arranged to meet Ana at 10pm for fuel.
We met Ana and got some fuel. Then in Ana’s car we did a spotlight transect of the area with me controlling the high powered light. It was like a night safari in Africa and I kept expecting to see hippos in the rice fields. Ana then told us we were invited to a music festival at the beach on the weekend, that we didn't have work tomorrow and also we only had to work until 2am tonight. So at 2am we finished after finding all 4 owls.
Day 33 - 29/7/11 - Porto Covo Music Weekend
Today after a good sleep and checking who was back on the nest (owl 29 as usual) we packed the car and headed for Coruche. We changed to Rodolfo’s car with Rodolfo, Ana and Lawrenco and headed for a music festival in Sines.
We arrived to a cloudy evening although on the way it was very hot, so much so that Lawrenco didn’t want to go outside. We stayed at Ana’s parents caravan, a tourer turned static, in a small beach town called Porto Covo. Her parents were also staying here so Sam and I slept on camp beds in the awning.
When we first arrived we were given BBQ mackerel. First we had prawns and mussels as they were so filling thought they were the main. After tea we saw a giant cane toad hopping about.
We then went into Porto Covo at night and found a small outdoor stage with a rock group on. We watched this for a while then went home to bed.
Day 34 - 30/7/11 - Sines: World of Music
This morning we got up at 9am, had breakfast and headed for the beach. When we got to the beach it was a bit chilly but it warmed up after a while. Rodolfo tried the sea and said it was like ice but I doubted this so after playing with Lawrenco in the puddles I went for a swim. I found it surprisingly warm, so warm that I stayed in for about half an hour. Ana tried, got to where I was, then went back. The waves here where big enough for me to body surf on.
After this we went back for more food then into town and the cliffs. The water was crystal clear and very rough. Wild fig was growing on the cliffs as where vygie looking flowers.
We went to another beach which was very crowded. i found that while in the sea the sun cream had come off again and my back was red raw so I stayed out this time. After an hour or so we went back for a sit around at the caravan for a while. While waiting for tea Lawrenco wanted me to play football/basketball/runaround and also show me a swallows nest. Today tea was a very nice fish stew and was very filling.
As the sun dipped below the horizon we headed for Sines and the World of Music festival. The festival goes on all night with groups from all over the world performing. As it goes on so late Ana’s parents and Lawrenco stayed at the caravan. The main festival performances are in a castle with the rest of the town turned into the festival grounds. The main acts take place in the castle but cost whereas if you stay outside screens on the walls have the performance projected onto them and its free. We watched from outside and drank sangrias.
After the last performance, most of which were African tonight, we headed for the shop tents. A brief firework display went on above us as we descended the streets to sea level. Sam bough a pair of what Rodolfo called “clown trousers” which she didn’t find amusing. We each got a burger and ate it sitting on the beach. After a while the free to watch beach stage started playing music.
We watched these and they sounded like the group “Madness”. The main performance went on until 5am and was replaced by a D.J. We took this as our cue for sleep. We collected the sleeping bags from the car and headed for the beach, getting lost on the way. We settled down for sleep just as the sun was showing its first light at 6am.
Fun at the festival
Day 35 - 31/7/11 - Taxi for 2 (hundred km)
We didn’t really sleep much as the music went on all morning even playing after we left at 10am. The only reason I know I slept was I suddenly felt hot. it was as the sun was blazing away and being asleep I hadn’t noticed.
We went back to the caravan, had breakfast and I fell asleep in my chair. I was woken up by some eucalyptus leaves falling on my head. I found only Ana still awake as she cannot sleep in the daytime. The others had gone to sleeps on the beds. I then moved onto a spare bed.
I was woken again, this time a few hours later, by Lawrenco who thankfully had been at the beach all day with Ana’s parents. He had a toy Lightning McQueen car that made annoying sounds.
I got up and spent most of the day playing with Lawrenco. Sam got up after basically a full days sleep. We took a short walk to town and had snails. We were all tired again and just sat there staring blankly into space, even Lawrenco.
We got back for a BBQ of lots of meat, so much so that I could hardly move afterwards. Then Rodolfo’s car broke. The brakes wouldn’t work. We luckily found this out while still at the caravan site rather than a main road. So Rodolfo phoned the insurance company who sent us a taxi. The taxi took us home over 200km.
Day 36 - 1/8/11 - Stuck Sparrow
This morning I got up to find Sam chasing a sparrow around the kitchen. She couldn’t catch him as he kept hiding behind the sideboard then flying into the window. I got Sam to hold a towel over the window so he couldn’t see it and I pushed a piece of cardboard behind the sideboard. Once he flew out I put the card over the top of the sideboard and shepherded him to the main room.We opened the main door and stood in strategic positions and ushered him outside. He must have been in all weekend as after we left the next person left on Sunday.
It was raining heavy on and off all day so we were confined to the house. We did a check on the owls in the nest and it rained. We got back and it rained. We couldn’t go tracking as it rained. So we went to the cinema to see Transformers 3. We got back and found an odd centipede with big teeth and what looked like a long stinger on his back. We put him outside and went to bed.
Day 37 - 2/8/11 - Big Scary Dog
Today we needed mosquito repellent so took a drive to Montijo shopping mall. We got here to find a small world culture craft fair. We took a small look around but found nothing of interest. Considering the stalls were meant to each be from a different country most sold the exact same things. We got our repellant and headed home for a rest.
When we headed out the most amazing clouds appeared on the hills. Some looked like great plumes of a volcano while others had a slate grey blue tinge to them and ran over the edges of the hills like the famous tablecloth of Table Mountain.
Tonight there where so many mossies but we didn’t get irritated by them, the new repellent must be good. We took some readings for the owls but lost them. We drove to Villa Franca’s Vantage point and found nothing, then we drove to the north farm fields. Still nothing.
We stopped in a pull in for water next to an old house with a big gate. I said to Sam “Imagine if a big dog is in there” and we laughed. Next thing we heard lots of angry barking and ran to the car. Just as we got in a massive black guard dog was jumping at the gate. It scared us and we moved on in the car. We found 2 owls and recorded until 3am.
Day 38 - 3/8/11 - Freaky Things
Today a group came to visit to learn about the project. They where supposed to turn up at 6pm and we were ready for them but due to them all being Portuguese they didn't arrive until almost 7pm. Inês gave a presentation in Portuguese and showed some videos. We then went for some food in Porto Alto.
By the time we got to the nest all the owls had gone and the group was expecting to see some radio tracking. So before they arrived Sam and I took a drive to the river and back. On the way we saw a calf in the road but no owls. We picked up an owl (32) by the barn and Ana gave the group a demonstration of tracking. This took a while so we didn't take too many recordings.
Towards the end of the night on my walkie talkie I heard horrible spine chilling sounds of a woman screaming and a baby crying. It freaked me out so we went for a drive. This time the calf was right in the middle of the road and didn't move for a while. At Villa Franca we heard a pack of dogs barking angrily nearby and getting louder. We went home a bit shaken.
Day 39 - 4/8/11 - Busy Day
We got up early as Sam was catching a plane home for the weekend to go to a wedding. Ana got stuck at the gate as a truck had blocked the way and Sam was worried she would miss the bus and have to be driven to Lisbon. Ana turned up and Sam made it to the bus in time.
Ana and I then did a road kill transect which involved driving down the main road, in the hard shoulder, with hazard lights on looking for dead owls. This was dangerous as we had to drive very slowly on a hazardous road which has many accidents on it. We got to the end in one piece and then turned back to do the same thing in the opposite direction. We found no dead owls at all which meant 2 things, no owls had died (obviously) and they hadn't really started to disperse.
We then went back to Coruche for lunch with Rodolfo and waited for Inês to arrive and go visit the Cork Observatory. This is a building outside Coruche which is the headquarters of the cork industry. It also had a lab that the project would be using. We had a tour around. The whole place has cork everywhere from bowls to walls and signs to floors. We visited the labs which were basic but suitable for owl and pellet dissection.
We left and went to Ana’s to rest for the night shift. I read and watched T.V which was odd to see after a month without one. After a nice Portuguese cod meal we headed off nearly hitting a car that stopped suddenly.
At the field we couldn’t find the owls, well we had a brief contact with one of them then it was gone, so we went to Villa France and still found none. We got back and had an owl for 1 hour before losing it. We had a rest in the car and woke to find the guards next to the car. They asked Ana if we had seen another car. If we did to leave as they were not friendly. We decided not to risk it and left immediately. We were thankful to leave as we were tired. On the way to the road we saw a car coming towards us that just vanished.
Day 40 - 5/8/11 - Little Owl
I woke up late to an empty house with breakfast laid out and a note from Ana saying to text her when I wake. She came to pick me up with Lawrenco who was very pleased to see me. We went to Ana’s parents and found that one of her dads dogs had died. I met Ana’s mum and grandmother again and they gave me lots of food.
Ana and Lawrenco showed me round the very large garden. they had lots of dogs and some cute little puppies. Ana and Lawrenco went back to the house while I explored the garden and took some photos. Back at the house Lawrenco had got a hosepipe and I had to keep dodging the water he aimed at me which he found funny. We took Ana’s grandmother home and went back to Ana’s.
After playing in the garden with Lawrenco and a shellfish dinner we went to do a spotlight transect. We saw about 60 owls and a first for the project, a little owl.
Day 41 - 6/8/11 - Bad Actors (And Singers)
Today the house was quiet when I woke up but soon filled with lots of people as Ana and Rodolfo where going to a wedding and their house was the meeting point. Inês, Za and Normando came to pick me up and we went ti the supermarket shopping where we met Normando’s brother.
We went to the house where Za showed me his cars then we had a pasta lunch with plums from the garden as desert. We then walked down the road to Inês parents where we met her mother and sister. We collected figs from one of the many trees, which tasted very nice and sweet. We then went back to the house before tea and Za wanted to play.
Normando’s parents and brother joined us for a tea of snails and whelk followed by chestnuts and chiritzo then figs. I didn’t like the whelks but everyone else did. They tasted just of sea water to me.
We went into Coruche to see an open air theatre. There was also an event in the bullring with free beer. The only catch was it was in the middle of the ring with angry cows also in there, we didn't go. Instead we watched the theatre which was awful but Inês enjoyed it. The people couldn’t act, dance or sing. They had a crane there that they used at every opportunity to have people and other objects flying around.
Day 42 - 7/8/11 - Ghost Lake
I woke after a good sleep in a big comfy bed late in the morning. Much of the day was spent relaxing and playing with Za who tried to teach me a bit of Portuguese and I tried to teach him some English. He was better at learning than I was.
Late in the day we went to a woodland around a lake. I took some photos here. Inês told me it used to be a popular place with a cafe and lifeguards but since it was found the lake was filled with chemical run off from the farms people stopped using it. The buildings remained and whee falling apart giving the area an odd ghostly feel to it.
We went home and for tea we had meatloaf and sultana rice which was nice. Inês house is far enough away from built up areas to have good stars. I’d seen them last night but was too tired to take photos. Tonight i gave it a go. To my disappointment the moon was up. I tried anyway and got some nice photos which Za liked. Then I went to sleep in the comfy bed.
The abandoned cafe
Day 43 - 8/8/11 - End of a Lazy Weekend
This morning after another good sleep Inês had to go to Evora so I went to Ana’s again. The cleaner was there so I kept Lawrenco occupied in the garden. We were to do a full owl night as well as pick Sam up from the airport so spent most of the day relaxing, watching Family Guy, American Dad and The Simpson’s then reading and sleeping in the garden. I only slept and read once Ana had taken Lawrenco to her mothers as he kept wanting to play and liked my book, Whatever you do, don’t run, as it had some colour photos of safari life in the middle.
After resting, which made me feel more tired we went to the airport to pick Sam up. Ana was still tired from her weekends wedding as was Sam. Since the flight was delayed we listened to Ana’s suggestion of missing the owls for the night. Ana was so tired that she had to get a coffee from a service station before taking us home.
Day 44 - 9/8/11 - No Owls At All
Today was very hot. We got up and went to the supermarket and the car thermometer read 37oC. We checked the nest finding owl 29. While there I saw what looked like a swallowtail butterfly.
We went home and relaxed outside in the shade which my thermometer read as 33oC. I put it in the sun and it got up to 49.9oC! Very hot! As you went from outside to inside it felt like entering a freezer while going the other way the heat hit you like a solid wall. The heat brought with it lots of annoying blue bottle flies.
When we went to the field at night the heat was still high, 27oC. We found no owls all night only 31 across the river weakly where we cannot go and track. We went to Villa Franca’s view point which was incredibly windy but had no luck. The moon was almost full and lit the river like a ribbon of silver in the dark of the floodplain. We returned to the floodplain, found no owls so went home.
Day 45 - 10/8/11 - Setubal
This morning we set off early to some nature reserves and the small city of Setubal where we had heard that dolphins use the estuary. The drive there was very quick but we got lost in the main city eventually heading to where the map said the estuary was. We got there to find it was a big industrial area with lots of massive ships. We couldn't get close to the water so decided the dolphins didn't exist and drove to the city centre.
The whole city has dolphins everywhere from statues to man hole covers. On the waterfront there where even around 20 life-size dolphin models all artistically painted. I liked the cow dolphin. In the water of the harbour we saw many shoals of small fish and a few large ones.
After walking around town we got hungry so went to a seafood restaurant on the harbour where the food was cooked next to the tables. It was also all you can eat, a drink and dessert for €11. We ate a lot of good food here. We then went back to the car and drove to the hills.
The road was a high mountain pass above the sea with great views and crazy motorists, much like Chapmans Peak. We stopped halfway at an amazing viewpoint and saw a small sandy island where people had gone to in their boats. We also saw a beach on the mainland and aimed to get to it.
We drove down and came to some traffic lights that didn’t work too well as when we went through some cars where still coming up the hill making us reverse. We got to the bottom and it was very narrow and the car park was full. We didn’t stay and went back up the hill. While waiting at the lights one car decided he didn’t want to wait and went up the narrow single lane hill into the traffic. No accident was caused but how I don’t know.
We eventually found a beach car park where the attendant was determined to make us park in a space smaller than the car. Sam gave up and parked in a bigger space. We had to walk a rocky path through high bushes and low trees. We found a man who looked like he knew the way. He didn’t. We followed him for a while but it was getting so hot that we eventually gave in and went our own way. We eventually found a man who did know the way and thanked him when he showed us the beach.
I went in the sea for a while but not for too long as it was not quite warm enough for too long a swim. I saw some nice fish, some like miniature lone zebras, others in small shoals. I want a snorkel and mask for our next beach trip.
We left hot and tired back to the house where Ana and Inês where setting up for the second life science group visit. We took a much needed shower and joined the group once more to watch Inês presentation.
At the field we had owls 29 and 32 and where able to show the group us actually tracking. One of the group, a photographer who has taken photos for the project before, wanted a photo of us working. Also he wanted the airfield as a backdrop so drove us there. We had our photos taken and went back to work.
All the activity had scared the owls off. We kept looking and had a few single signals. On the way out we saw an owl eating its prey, swallowing it whole. We then went home.
Dolphin statues
Day 46 - 11/8/11 - RADAR
We drove through Lisbon to an industrial estate to collect 2 people and a RADAR system. On the way we saw some flamingo under the Vasco de Gama bridge. After lunch and picking up the people and equipment we went to the field stopping at the house for water and suncream as well as my hat.
Once in the field we drove around looking for a suitable site. The RADAR needed a low barrier in the open to stop unwanted “noise”. We found a site and set up the RADAR, well the experts did. The RADAR gives off radiation so you need to be 20m away. Ana, Sam and myself didn’t trust the distance so moved further away while Inês trusted the experts and stayed close.
The radar worked but not well so it was placed in a ditch which was perfect or as the experts said, “Nivarna”. We where given a demonstration and shown buzzards on the screen. After this Ana, Sam and myself did a roadkill transect, finding 1 dead owl, while Inês and the experts had tea.
As the car was required for the RADAR we could not track so went home for tea and an early night. We did some lamping, seeing some mammals eyes which scared Sam, before bed. Its a very hot humid night with thunderstorms forecast for tomorrow.
Day 47 - 12/8/11 - Owl Pellets
After a good, full nights sleep we drove to Coruche and the Cork Observatory lab to analyse some owl pellets. Going into Coruche a big stage has been placed in the main car park, stalls are being set up and the streets covered in sand as well as lights like christmas ones lining the streets. There is a festival at the weekend which we plan to visit and the sand is because at times bulls run the streets and its to give them grip.
We got to the lab early so had a quick drink before returning. Inês showed us how to take a pellet apart and what to look for then we had a go. I enjoyed being in the new lab and taking apart the pellets. We found many rodent skulls, mice, voles and shrews as well as a few birds probably sparrows.
After taking most of these apart Inês showed us the presentation from the other night but in English, and this time it made sense. After this it was getting late in the evening so we went home for tea before tracking.
We found owl 31 who we haven't seen for a while and had her most of the night. The calf we saw last week was still out of the field and has been for about a fortnight now.
Day 48 - 13/8/11 - An Adventure in Troia
We went back to Setubal as we knew that there was a festival there. We took a look around and found no sign of a festival so asked in the tourist information who told us it was on the peninsula across the bay. This required a ferry and a short walk so off we went.
As we got off the ferry we asked at what looked like an outdoor living room the way to go. They told us it was about an hours walk and that the other ferry was much closer to the place. So we set off walking.
The ferry had dropped us at Troia, a town/complex with only one road in and out. The whole place looked fake, very clean, modern and white, almost like a film set. It felt like being in the Sims or the Truman show. It was odd but more peculiar things where waiting.
We walked in the heat, resting in any shade we found and drinking plenty of water. We reached a gate and a guards hut, the entrance to the area and halfway into our walk, exhausted. It didn’t help that we had walked a few km in just flip-flops. The guard said a bus came and went from the other ferry and that we could get a free lift which pleased us.
We arrived and saw a drinks tent, so, very thirsty we stopped here. A very drunk man, but nice, started talking to us to practice his English. Most of it made no sense probably due to the beer. He looked like he had been drinking for a long time, his eyes where bloodshot, he had foam at the corners of his mouth and was a bit crazy. He also had spittle flying when he talked. Because of this I suggested to Sam he may have rabies and she too as she was now covered in his saliva.
We eventually got away from Rabies man and took a look around. There where 3 stalls, the drinks tent, a sweet shop ad a trouser stall. That was all and many boats. People camp here then go out on boats at night. It was very odd and seemed like a refugee camp with happy people who all know each other. Walking here we met Rabies man again for another English lesson.
We wanted to go from this odd peninsula. It seemed we were trapped on a strange island. We went back for the bus but it had gone so we had to wait 1/2 hour for the next one to arrive. We decided to get a drink which was when Rabies man came back for yet another conversation. This time it was “confirmed” that he had rabies as he refused water saying he couldn’t drink it. So he had rabies it seems (or just very drunk, one or the other). I kept looking for the bus and could see that Sam was doing the same thing, especially as the man was making even less sense.
To our relief the bus eventually came but rabies guy wanted us to stay. So we said we would just go and ask when the bus was going and he said “O.K” or something about petrol and the earths blood. We just got on the bus and waited for it to leave. I’ve never felt as out of place as I did here.
Where the bus stopped still left us a 5 minute walk to the ferry. We got here tired and found we had to buy tickets from by where the bus dropped us off. Since by now Sam had a blister I went back for the tickets. They were even further away than we had been told. The ticket place had no information or signs only that I asked a guard where to go was I able to find it. So after a 10 minute extra walk (and a jog as the ferry was now docked) we sailed back to setubal and the real world.
After docking we were extremely hungry as all we had eaten was candy floss. We didn’t want to eat on the main road as the traffic was heavy and right next to the tables so we walked into the centre. Here we found a nice little restaurant and I had the biggest steak I have ever seen. It was the size of the plate, came with rice and chips and a salad at a cost of only €10. It tasted really good.
After this we had planned on watching the boats leave the festival at about 9:30pm but our waitress informed us that they didn’t leave until after midnight at the earliest. We decided not to wait. On the way back to the car I took some nighttime street photos then we had tea and cake before coming home for a well earned rest.
Day 49 - 14/8/11 - Coruche Festival
The first day of the Coruche festival was today so Ana invited us to stay and Rodolfo’s parents invited us to lunch at the pool house. We met Ana’s cousin, her son and his friend. They were nice people who could speak basic English, except Francisco (the son) who spoke it very well and was only 14. He acted as a translator when people didn’t understand each other.
We had good BBQ food again then we all went for a swim, even Lawrenco, although he didn’t swim and was carried by people. After a swim we rested in the shade while Lawrenco and the other 2 boys played with a bucket of water and a ball. Rodolfo thought this was boring so got a water pistol and told Lawrenco to shoot the resting people.
This got out of hand with everyone soaked except Lawrenco and Rodolfo (it was ok for Lawrenco as he was a baby). Later as it calmed down we rested again which was when we got Lawrenco to drench rodolfo. He was not happy. Shortly after the gun broke which pleased most of us.
We went back to Ana’s for a snack and rest before heading into town for the festival. While eating we had a funny translation error. Za, Ana’s cousin, was telling us about a procession which happens on the Monday for the towns saint, “the lady of the church”. She said we could go to the “Big Ladies” house to see this. We wondered what she meant then found out she was on about Ana’s “grand mothers” house. We laughed.
As we got into town we found a tape barrier across the road. The guards let us quickly pass just in time to get to the other side. Lots of marching bands where circulating the town on the way to the main stage. We caught the last few only. We carried on and found Rodolfo’s parents and neighbors at a bar sitting next to the main street. We sat with them and the bands made it round to here allowing us to see them all. The whole place was nice and friendly with everyone knowing each other and wanting to meet me and Sam.
We headed to the main square to meet Inês who was supposed to be playing on the big stage but was too ill. We met her anyway and saw her sister singing. After this it was time for the fireworks. These where disappointing except for when the bridge goes on fire and has a glittering waterfall of fireworks. Towards the end it got a bit better with many fireworks all at once.
We were getting hungry but first we needed to find Rodolfo’s brother. We found him and found he only looks a little like Rodolfo and is a lot smaller but his personality is exactly the same. Then we went for food.
We ate in a semi permanent restaurant set up for the festival under the slipway from the main road. The food here was good non the less. We were told a bull was being released into the streets so we finished our meals and headed to the street.
The bull runs in the road and the pavements are protected by wooden fences. Lots of people stood in the street then fled as the bull came past. Seeing the bulls so scared upset Sam so we decided to go home. This wasn’t a bad idea as it was gone 3am.
On the way back Rodolfo wanted to show us how fast he was running up hill. I overtook him and he tried to catch me but couldn’t. This made him trow up when we got home. We were both surprised at how fast I moved.
Day 50 - 15/8/11 - Procession of the “Big Lady”
We spent most of the morning recovering from last night. After we had suitably recovered we went to Ana’s grandmothers house to place bricks in the parking space and a note so that no one would park there in the evening. The house was very big and old and nice. We left and went home for lunch, the nice cod potato thing.
It was so hot at the house we had to put a fan on. Lawrenco wanted to touch the fan so Sam and I had to keep an eye on him while Ana and Rodolfo did the washing up. He wouldn’t leave the fan so I picked him up and “flew” him to the sofa. He enjoyed this and kept running, checking I was following and kept wanting to “fly”. This kept going for about 1/2 hour until I had to rest. I had a lie on the floor mattress and Lawrenco then though I was a good chair. Ana then fed him soup while he was still. He spilt most of it on me but Ana did wash the shorts after.
Later Ana’s friends from the Algarve came round with there 1 year old daughter. Lawrenco was showing off wanting to fly again which I did for a while then he ran outside. I didn’t follow.
We rested for a while before going into town and Ana’s grandmothers to watch the procession of “the lady of the church” or as we now call it “the procession of the big lady”. The brock and note Ana left didn’t work and a car had parked over the garden gate. We got dropped off and Rodolfo and Ana’s friends went to find a space.
Ana had asked a little girl of about 10 to join us. Sam and I didn’t see her come in. Sam went to the kitchen and came back saying that there was someone in the hallway. I looked and saw the little girl. When we came earlier Sam had said about ghosts. I went back to Sam saying no one was there. She looked again saying there was, I looked and said there wasn’t. She got scared by this thinking there was a ghost. I couldn’t help laughing and gave it away.
Ana’s cousin came and we all gathered on the 2 small balconies and in the bedroom windows to see the procession. This started with the scouts then hundreds of people in single file on both sides of the street. This was all very odd. Some people were bare foot, others had dressed the kids, some had candles taller than themselves, but the strangest was the older people who had dressed up. This took at least half and hour to pass and was followed by a marching band an the “Big Lady” who was a lifelike statue being carried by four men. It was all very odd. We found out that the people walk through the town then up the hill to the church/castle. After this Ana’s cousin went back to Evora and the other friends back to the Algarve.
By now we were hungry so went to the festival for food. We met Ana’s friend, Lawrencos godmother, and sat with her while she finished her drink. Then we walked round, people constantly joining us. We settled on under the bridge, by now Sam and I were starved. We were told it was a 20 minute wait for a table for all the people who had joined us. We were happy to eat elsewhere but Rodolfo was settled on here. We looked at the main menu and told Ana what we liked the sound of.
Once seated a lot of shouting and hand waving went on and confused Sam and I. We asked Ana what was going on and she said the food was being ordered and she had ordered us ours. The food was good but in the noisy way the food was ordered too many meals appeared.
After tea we were so tired Sam and I went home when Ana took Lawrenco and left Rodolfo with the mass of people who had followed us.
Day 51 - 16/8/11 - Nest Cleaning
When I got up this morning I found Sam was ill and we had to clean some nest boxes. After a lazy morning we headed to the Comphania where the nest boxes to be cleaned where. By now Sam was too ill to go so I got changed into some old clothes and went with Ana to clean some boxes.
I didn’t realise how big the Comphania was and we drove for a long time on dirt roads before arriving at the first nest. As we approached 2 owls flew out. It is not normal to have 2 birds in a box unless they are breeding. We decided not to disturb any more boxes but since this one was now empty anyway we cleaned it. The amount of waste was huge and didn’t look like it should have been able to fit in the box. We were glad to only have to clean the one box.
Ana went back to Coruche and I stayed at the Companhia to rest. At night Sam was still too ill so Ana and I went radio tracking. We first did a spotlight transect seeing around 40 owls and a badger. We did some tracking on 3 of the owls and I found a new place to stand, on top of the cow pens. Here I was able to get a much better range on the antenna. By 1:30am both Ana and I were so tired we left. Ana had to sleep in the car for a while at the Companhia before leaving.
Day 52 - 17/8/11 - Traditional Floats
Sam was well enough to drive to Coruche to see a parade. On the way in the traffic by the series of bridges was really bad. We thought the bridges may have been closed. They weren’t and we managed to park near Ana’a grandmothers. Here we met Rodolfo’s other grandparents. Lawrenco liked my camera and was fascinated by the flash.
We watched the parade which consisted of floats depicting traditional scenes, lots of horses, a herd of cows, and Inês with her band from the balcony. This lasted for quite a while.
After this we went for a meal with Rodolfo’s parents before they left for a holiday in Switzerland. After shouting and hand waving we got the food again ordering one too many. When it arrived we just denied we had ordered it. The meal came in a staggered order with all of us finished before Sam’s meal had even arrived. After food Lawrenco wanted to sit on my knee and really liked my beard today. Rodolfo’s parents paid for our meal which was kind and we said goodbye. Lawrenco kept wanting me to pick him up and then carry him all day.
At night we went tracking and had one owl while the other channels where washed out by interference. By around 1am it was too cold to stay so we left, happy that we had recordings since 10pm.
Day 53 - 18/8/11 - Sickness Strikes
Not much happened today. We went to Montijo and I bought a Portugal flag sticker for my travel chest. We then went to the supermarket as I needed milk and tea but ended up buying much more that that.
We got back and had some of the food we had just bought before doing some computer work. We planned our newsletter and the layout. We then filled in the headings and inserted relevant photos for each section. After this the battery died so we read our books. The flies where really annoying.
After tea I had a bad stomach but felt well enough to go to the field. We got to the field and located owl 32 at the cow shed so I set up my “desk”, which was my chair, and Sam drove to her spot. We took one recording and then I was sick so we went home at around 10pm. Then I went straight to sleep to hopefully be well for the weekend.
Day 54 - 19/8/11 - Sick Day
I woke up early still feeling ill. I stayed in bed but got bored and read. Even though I felt sick I was still hungry so i got up and had some cereal. The flies where unbearable today as it was so hot and close outside so most of the day was spent inside doing computer work.
In the afternoon Ana came with and extra laptop to do work on. She also invited us back to Porto Covo at the weekend if I feel better. In the late afternoon I was feeling better except when walking. It made me feel sick but I didn’t bring anything up.
For tea I had a plain spaghetti wrap with a few peppers. Inês said that if I was not well enough not to go to the field. Since when standing I felt sick we didn’t go. Sitting down was fine so we decided to go to the cinema to see Captain America which we both enjoyed. As we left at 11pm we were surprised to find all the shops open and lots of people in the mall, more so than in the day. It seemed odd for any day especially a Friday.
Day 55 - 20/8/11 - Thunderbolts and Lightning
Ana had invited us to stay at the beach for the weekend at Porto Covo and since I was feeling better we did. The weekend wasn’t beach weather with rain and even some lightning when we got closer to our destination. We were told to meet at the supermarket in Sines by Ana who said she would be 10 minutes.
After half an hour we wondered if we had the wrong supermarket but waited, watching the lightning overhead, for 40 minutes when her family arrived with her. They had been to sell her dad’s car. We went round the supermarket with Lawrenco alternating between the trolley and being carried by me.
We went to the caravan and were fed lots of sardines. Then it rained so we went inside before heading to a beach cafe to watch the storm come in from the sea. It was a big electrical storm with white, blue, orange and purple lightning. We went for a paddle once the storm had passed. Rodolfo though it would be fun to push us all in the sand so he did. I got him back by tackling him and throwing him in the sand while Ana kicked sand on him.
We went back for a meat BBQ with what seemed like an endless supply of food. After playing with Lawrenco for a while we went into town. We had a few drinks and met people from Coruche (it seems everyone here comes from there) and went home when it rained.
Day 56 - 21/8/11 - Cloudy Beach
Today was Ana’s parents last day on holiday so we were determined to get to the beach. The car was full. Ana’s dad driving, her mother in the front passenger seat, Lawrenco in the baby seat, Sam and Ana’s grandmother on the back seat, Ana on the floor of the backseats and Rodolfo and me in the boot seats as it was a land-rover. The beach was overcast, cold and windy but we stayed. Rodolfo woke this morning unable to put any pressure on one foot so he had to hop and then eventually crawl onto the beach.
i played in the sand for a while with Lawrenco then tried the sea. It was too cold to go in past my waist so I gave up. The sun eventually came out just as we where leaving. We got back and each had a big BBQ fish which was really good.
After lunch Ana’s parents left to go home with her grandmother. After a while Lawrenco fell asleep after I tried to get him to learn the word “dog”. He couldn’t or wouldn’t and went to sleep while the rest of us rested. We didn’t go anywhere or do anything else except relax, talk, drink and eat all night until we eventually became too tired and went to bed.
Day 57 - 22/8/11 - First Goodbye’s
Today we woke to our final few hours with Ana, Rodolfo and little Lawrenco. We all had breakfast and I had one last kick around with Lawrenco before we grabbed our stuff and walked to the car with the 3 of them. We loaded the car and said goodbye as if we would see each other soon. Me and Rodolfo shook hands and patted each other on the back, I gave Ana a hug and a high-five to Lawrenco and then we were gone.
On the motorway the fuel light popped on and the nearest service station was 30km away. We wondered if we would make it but we did putting just enough fuel to get us home before the fuel light came back on.
Not long after getting in Inês came to help us with our computer work and tell us what was to happen in the week, not much. After this and tea we went to the field.
There where no owls so we drove and drove eventually ending up at Villa Franca. We returned to the barn and still had no owls. We were very tired and since there was nothing to record we headed home.
Me, Lawrenco and a ball
Day 58 - 23/8/11 - Lisbon Gifts
It was our last chance to go to Lisbon and as today had a flea market in one of the squares we decided to go. We thought about getting the bus but worked out that it would probably be cheaper to drive the car in. So we crossed the Vasco de Gama bridge seeing some more flamingo in the estuary and drove straight to the Orient train station’s car park with relative ease.
From the station we got the underground to the area of Lisbon with the flea market. We stepped out the metro station to find we where at the bottom of a very steep hill. We walked up and found the cobble stones very slippery but we eventually made it. The whole point in coming here was to find gifts for our families, Ana and Inês.
So I bought my family their gifts and we found an owl brooch for Inês. Ana had liked Sam’s scarf which we had bought in a different area of Lisbon. We saw similar scarfs at the craft market but Sam said to wait to go to the other area, so we did.
When we got to the other area we saw no stalls and realised that last time we came was on a Saturday not a Tuesday. We considered going back to the flea market but we were hungry so stopped for some food. While eating we decided we would go back, so we finished our food and hopped back on the metro.
We arrived at the market to find most of the stalls had either left or where packing up. The stall we wanted was packed up and the lady was putting the last few boxes in her car. We got to her out of breath saying we knew exactly what we wanted and she kindly got the scarf box out. We made our choice, paid and thanked the lady before jumping back on the subway.
Our next stop was the Natural History Museum. Looking on the map it seemed easy to find but we had a bad map where most most streets had no name and not to any sort of scale. After wondering round and using logic (we knew it was by the gardens so headed for the only trees), we eventually found it. We climbed the big stairs to the entrance to find it was closed. We were disappointed but then noticed a small sign saying that the entrance was around the corner while improvement work was going on on the main entrance.
At the pay office we found there was lots of areas so we paid to see the main area and the dinosaur exhibit. Once in we started to read the information signs. At this point we remembered we couldn’t read Portuguese so either had to guess what was on show or rely on the few latin names we knew between us.
The dinosaur exhibit had a few bones and footprints, even a t-rex skull and velociraptor claw, but most where fiberglass reconstructions. The stuffed animals which made up the rest of the museum where common and badly stuffed. We left here disappointed and Sam told me to visit the one in London instead. We then ate a big Pastel de Nata each which tasted faintly of milky bar. We headed for the train back and had no problems finding the bridge out.
We went for the owls and found nothing until about 11pm. Owl 31 turned up so we took about 4 readings before the radio died so we went home and put them on charge.
Day 59 - 24/8/11 - Road Kills
Inês arrived this morning late but this was no surprise. We drove to Porto Alto, got some petrol money and climbed into Inês car. It was time for this weeks road kill transect so with Inês driving, Sam recording data and me on the G.P.S we headed down the long dangerous road in the hard shoulder. We also had the radio on to try and located the owls daytime roosts but had no luck. We checked on the nest box and found owl 29 still uses it as her roost. By the end of the transect we had found no owls, a fox and 5 other unidentified mammals.
After this we went to the supermarket to get our last bit of food to hopefully last until Monday and also got the last of our presents. Some beer for Rodolfo and a “Cars” beach set for Lawrenco. On the way back we got some wine from the farm we are staying on. One for Ana’s parents, one for Rodolfo’s and one for Normando.
At night we had no owls to start with so went for a drive and found the calf still out of the field, this time with another calf. We drove back to the barn. We found owl 31 and took almost 2 hours of recordings before the batteries on my tracking radio died. There was no warning the batteries were low, it just died.
Day 60 - 25/8/11 - Birding on the Floodplain
After a lazy morning by about 1pm we were bored so decided to go for a drive to see if we could find the flamingo. Near the house we had seen a sign for a nature reserve so followed it. After a while of driving down a dirt track which seemed promising we came upon a big sign saying “Private Property, No Entry” (in Portuguese obviously, but thats how fluent we had become), so we headed for the floodplain.
At the floodplain to be strangely devoid of white storks, who on other visits we had seen vast numbers of. Once at the river we could just make out the pink mass of a flamingo flock on the far banks through binoculars. We decided to drive around to see if we could find another road further down. On the way we had a good view of a hunting marsh harrier. We couldn’t find another road that wasn’t closed off so we gave up and went to Villa Franca’s view point to get some photos.
On the bridge there was a lot of police stopping random cars to check on papers. We were glad we didn’t get stopped as we would not know what they were asking for. At the view point 2 old men asked if we could speak Portuguese. We said no and like everyone else who asks this, and we respond no, still talked to us in Portuguese. We eventually worked out he wanted us to move the car so he could turn his car (although he had plenty of space to do so). We got to the view which is even more amazing in the day and took some photos. Helena, the vet, phoned to say she wasn’t working this afternoon so we headed straight there for tea as we had been wanting to meet up for a few weeks after she had left the house we were in.
She was staying in some really nice cabins with a pool in a wooded area which is where we initially thought we would be staying. We wished we had been. Helena made us some nice food and we had a relaxing evening before going to find the owls. We also made plans to have a BBQ tomorrow.
At the field we met Inês doing a spotlight transect with her father and sister. We asked about a BBQ and she said ok if we work Sunday instead. We only had 3 recordings all night and they where weak signals. We also didn’t see many owls either and Inês said the same.
Day 61 - 26/8/11 - BBQ
The first of our 2 days off today so we finished off the last of our computer work and headed to the supermarket. Here we bought the supplies for the BBQ and a building block toy farm for Ze. Then we headed to Helena’s nice house for the afternoon. She was in work until 8pm but left her card and key under the door mat.
To open the gate we needed the card so I had to climb a wall my height and jump down. In doing this one of my flip-flops came off and I landed on a very hard and spiky piece of ground. Once the gate was open we unloaded the supplies and also a few bags of food from the house which we wouldn’t eat, and went for a swim. This was really nice and we wished we had stayed here instead of our house.
After a swim we sat around the pool reading. I lay on the hot decking reading my book. After a while we got thirst so brought over some fanta. While reading about one of Gerald Durrell’s encounters with a flying lizard I too had an encounter with a reptile, although mine was nowhere near as exciting. The heat had brought out dozens of little lizards in all colours from brown to green, the most impressive in a vivid green with dark black triangles along its body with white speckles all over. It was one of these lizards I met. I felt something on my leg and thought it may have been a fly. However before I swatted it I saw this was not the case but one of the vivid green lizards, who had decided to use my leg as a sunbathing spot. Upon seeing me observing him he shot to my foot and jumped off down inbetween the decking.
After we sat by the house reading until Helena arrived and we set up the BBQ. I had trouble lighting it then Helena produced, from nowhere, a large bundle of dry sticks which instantly caught light. On here we put chiritzo’s squid, sausages, 2 sirloin steaks and a T-bone steak. This was a very nice and filling dinner, so much so that we were unable to finish the T-bone. We did however manage to find room for the chocolate cake. It was a nice evening and a good way to say goodbye to Helena.
Day 62 - 27/8/11 - Last Day With Ze
We filled the car with gifts and set off like santa and his sleigh to coruche. We hid Ana and her families gifts, along with the parents wine, in the garden behind the moped. We then went to Inês for lunch taking along her presents. Ze liked his farm and said ”thank you” in English then instantly set to work building his farm.
Normando’s brother came for lunch too as he was leaving early the next morning to his home in Luxembourg. His parents also came. We had a mix of seafood which we all enjoyed followed by fruit from the garden and a cold version of bread and butter pudding.
The rest of the day was spent relaxing and it flew by. It was 7pm before we knew it and time for tea which was crab and bread followed by ice cream. Ze kept checking if I had finished as he wanted to play with his owl puppet and me to “fly” Ze himself (like I did with Lawrenco) around the room.
We said goodbye to Normando’s brother and parents then played with Ze some more to try and tire him out before bed.We set up the air bed and he used it as a bouncy castle. Eventually he got tired and we all went to bed.
Day 63 - 28/8/11 - Final Owl Track.
After an un-comfy sleep on an air bed, which Inês warned me may deflate in the night but didn’t, we had breakfast, one last play with Ze and his owl puppet and headed home before lunch. Inês and Normando where going for lunch at a friends hence why we left early.
Back at the house we made lunch and packed as much of our bags as we could. Things like toiletries and our mossie gear was all that was left out. I tried a new way to pack, as suggested by Sam, by rolling the clothes rather than folding them and found I was able to fit my sleeping bag in my main bag rather than as hand luggage. After packing and cleaning the rooms there was nothing else to do except sit around and read before going to see the owls one last time.
When we arrived we had no owls so went for a drive before briefly finding owl 31 then losing her so we returned to wait by the cowsheds. Here we had owl 29 for a while but eventually lost her too. A few owls landed on the railing by me tonight as a goodbye. On reaching the gate to leave the floodplain decided it didn’t want us to leave so it made the gate stop working. We had to drive 20 minutes or so to the other gate which thankfully opened.
2 Barn Owls
Day 64 - 29/8/11 - Leaving on a Jetplane.
Our last day in Portugal and it was cold, although it did warm up a little after midday. We needed the car cleaned as it was brown inside and out rather than black. So we went to the carwash at Montijo’s shopping mall. The lady was surprised at the state of the car and said it would be €20 and take 3 hours! We had no option so left it with her and went to the mall. After a final Pastel de Nata and a complete lap of the mall we got bored so sat in some comfy chairs wishing we had brought along a book to read.
We got the car back so shiny and handed over our money to go back to the fly house for the rest of the day. We read our books and finished the last of the food and drink. We dipped ice pops in nutella which was a bad idea. To use up the milk I made a hot milk and nutella which to my surprise was very nice and not too sickly. Then we sat and waited for Inês who, surprisingly, was early by 15 minutes.
We handed over our, well their, equipment and set off following Inês lead. Inês took the lead as we needed to get fuel. The first station was out of fuel so we had to got to the more expensive one at the Vasco de Gama bridge services. While filling up Inês asked about the car wash and was so shocked at the price that she gave us our money back.
Crossing the bridge we got our last distant glimpse of the floodplain where our 4 owls have spent their time with us. We handed the car back with no problems even though the cleaners had scratched the windows and Sam had scoured the bonnet when trying to remove the mess the birds had made.
We said our last goodbye to Inês and also thanked her for the experience and went to security. Here they needed to check my bag as there was a “suspicious” bottle. It was my metal flask which they checked was empty, apologised and sent me on my way.
In the airport we ate looked at the minuscule duty free and waited patiently for our gate to open. It opened and boarded instantly so that we were the last two to get on the plane. The flight passed incredible fast and we left, got a taxi, and headed to Sam’s.
Day 65 - 30/8/11 -Got the Midday Train.
After sleeping in Sam’s incredibly comfy spare bed, I got up well rested and headed down for breakfast. I found Sam in the kitchen making bacon sandwiches and tea. While eating I met her housemate and boyfriend briefly before getting a lift with Sam to the Bristol train station.
Here Sam and I parted saying we would try and keep in touch and then I entered the station. I picked up my prepaid tickets, found my platform and boarded with no problems.
Now at the end of my journey I am sitting on a train hurtling towards Exeter and all that remains for me to do is meet my family and drive to our little house in the Cornish countryside.
Final Thoughts
I have really enjoyed my time in Portugal for the last nine weeks despite my complaining about mossies and flies. All the people we met where very friendly and will miss them all, especially little Lawrenco. I have to keep in touch with everyone (by choice), and hopefully return to pay them a visit in the future.
The Portuguese are friendly, good cooks, crazy drivers and very laid back but they have no common sense. This was displayed many times but just made me laugh rather than annoyed. Also they don't understand the concept of a queue. Everyone driving seems to be in a rush but are always late which makes no sense to me.
The experience of living here, learning some of the language and working on the project have been enjoyable and valuable.
Overall it was a very nice time.
Day 1 - 27/6/11 - Arrival
Today I set off for my adventure in Portugal. The flight from Bristol was delayed by 20 minutes so I met up with Sam and we went for a quick drink. The flight was over quite quick but nether the less by the time we set down at Lisbon it was already dark (22:15).
Today I set off for my adventure in Portugal. The flight from Bristol was delayed by 20 minutes so I met up with Sam and we went for a quick drink. The flight was over quite quick but nether the less by the time we set down at Lisbon it was already dark (22:15).
Waiting at the gate for us was Inês and Ana, who we will be working with the next 2 months. As they drove us to the farm we had a quick overview of the project and our roles.
The cottage is nice inside but too dark to tell from the outside. I have my own room with an en-suite and air conditioning which is handy to have as it’s reading 25oC on my thermometer and its 00:55hrs! There are a lot of spiders in here and I don't know if they are harmful or not, lets hope not.
Day 2 - 28/6/11 - Introduction
After a hot night, which I slept like a log, I unpacked and ate the “emergency ration breakfast” provided to us by Inês and Ana. At 10:30 Ana arrived at the cottage and introduced us to radio tracking which seems straight forward at the moment. We will see if this is the case when it is applied in the field.
We were then driven out to a nest box which had tagged owls in to give us a live demonstration of the tracking equipment in action. The area is very flat and looks a bit like Hopefield in South Africa. There are lots of nice bright butterflies in the fields here.
After this we drove to Porto Alto for lunch which was nice as well as cheap. Next stop was Freeport, the big outlet village, then to the supermarket. We stocked up and I found fanta grape (uva) and Ceres mango juice. Driving around we saw a lot of storks.
We spent the rest of the evening at the cottage listening to Portuguese learning C.D’s, reading and talking. I did a bit of birding seeing a booted eagle and a shrike.
Day 3 - 29/6/11 - Part 1:Baby Owls
After a breakfast with mango juice from Ceres, Inês took us to the military base. A soldier of a high rank (don’t know which) drove us around in a little 4X4 toyota. the area is a big dusty empty area much like the Western Cape of South Africa (but not as nice).
We stopped at a tower which Inês and Sam climbed up to collect 3 young barn owls who where almost ready to fledge. They where really cute! Inês ringed them, weighed and measured and took feathers for D.N.A. I helped Inês return them to the tower and collect a small dead owl.
We moved to another building and did the same again with 3 owls a few days younger (the first 3 were about 50 days old). One had a tutu of baby feathers. I measured the wing of one owl. The next nest we visited had newly hatched owls so we didn't take any data. As we took photos the mother appeared and we promptly left. We are doing night tracking later.
Day 3 - 29/6/11 - Part 2: Radio Tracking
After returning to the cottage , showering and eating we waited for Ana and Inês to arrive. We saw a few hare close to the cottage. The sky at sunset was the lilac purple “desert sky” colour and nice to see again.
So we drove out at dusk to the fields that the barn owls live in. First thing we noticed was how many mossies (mosquitoes) where about. The torch beam was filled with them. While Inês and Ana sorted out the G.P.S Sam and I tested the trackers and seen if we remembered how. We did. I am sure I heard a nightjar and Inês said they are around.
To decide who had the car was a difficult task. In the end it came down to rock, paper, scissors. Me and Inês stayed on foot. We did some simultaneous fixes on the owls locations until almost 02:00hrs. Most owls stayed in the barn as they are still young. However owl 31 was flying for a while. I’m tired now.
Day 4 - 30/6/11 - Hot!
Got a lie in today as we were supposed to collect the car from Lisbon but plans changed and Lisbon is now set for tomorrow with radio tracking again tonight. As we had the whole day free but unable to travel we cleaned the kitchen which was in a terrible mess.
Later we went for a walk and it was very hot but I had learned in the pass to wear my hat. We saw lots of rabbits and some baby ones too. The road we walked was long, straight and dusty with no shade. At the end was a small wooded area which we will hopefully return to when we have the car. After the walk we came back hot and tired, showered and had a rest.
We went out tracking again at dusk with me and Sam having full control of everything in an observed practice run. The owls where mainly on the nest so it was perfect for a test as we knew where they where. I took my night-vision scope tonight and saw only horses. We did get a big spider, a hairy one with huge fangs, on the flask. We saw a few owls flying around on the way home and finished at 02:30. Car tomorrow.
Day 5 - 1/7/11 - Lisbon Car
Today after another lie in until 11:00 we headed to Lisbon and the SPEA office to sign our agreement forms and sort out our allowance. Lisbon is a big busy place and the part of Lisbon we went to had the odd old building scattered here and there.
SPEA’s office was an old tall building with many flights of stairs leaving you tired out at the top. We met the team and signed our forms before getting some cake.
The next stop was the airport, not to go home but to collect the car. The car was a brand new VW polo with only 1000 km on the clock. I cant drive as the insurance is too expensive for under 25’s so it is Sam’s job to drive.
At night we did the tracking. On the way Sam missed the turn so we entered the site a different way seeing frogs, mice, owls and cows. We saw lot’s of owls who now are just starting to gather in the area.
At about 01:30 all the owls had stopped flying. We decided to do 1 last check on the 4 tagged owls. This all went fine and we where about to leave when we lost the last one. We drove everywhere with the antenna out the window. We gave up on this as it yielded no results and went up to the highest point in the city of Villa-Franca. This allows a large range to be scanned to try and locate the owls. We didn't find the owl so called it a night at 04:00.
Day 6 - 2/7/11 - Bert
Since we had such a late night I didn't get up until midday. The coffee maker which we have been using as a kettle for cups of tea started to leak so we had to resort to using a pan on the hob to boil the water.
We needed to check on the owls just to see if owl 32 had left the nest or not. On the floodplain we saw hundreds (not exaggerating) white storks. We will return with the camera. Number 32 had returned so has not completely left. Next we went to the supermarket to stock up and I bought more fanta grape.
After eating tea a little budgie appeared on the car. He kept looking at his reflection and pecking at it. We asked the house next door in our limited Portuguese if it belonged to them but it didn't. Its odd as there are no more houses for about 13km. He was a very tame bird letting you get very close. We decided to name him Bert. As its dry we cut a fanta bottles base off and made a small bath for him. He stayed with us all evening.
After dark we got the night scope out and saw some bats even though everyone we asked denied them being in the area. We also saw a nightjar. We then sat around talking and tried to do some star photography but it became too cloudy.
To decide who had the car was a difficult task. In the end it came down to rock, paper, scissors. Me and Inês stayed on foot. We did some simultaneous fixes on the owls locations until almost 02:00hrs. Most owls stayed in the barn as they are still young. However owl 31 was flying for a while. I’m tired now.
Me Radio Tracking |
Day 4 - 30/6/11 - Hot!
Got a lie in today as we were supposed to collect the car from Lisbon but plans changed and Lisbon is now set for tomorrow with radio tracking again tonight. As we had the whole day free but unable to travel we cleaned the kitchen which was in a terrible mess.
Later we went for a walk and it was very hot but I had learned in the pass to wear my hat. We saw lots of rabbits and some baby ones too. The road we walked was long, straight and dusty with no shade. At the end was a small wooded area which we will hopefully return to when we have the car. After the walk we came back hot and tired, showered and had a rest.
We went out tracking again at dusk with me and Sam having full control of everything in an observed practice run. The owls where mainly on the nest so it was perfect for a test as we knew where they where. I took my night-vision scope tonight and saw only horses. We did get a big spider, a hairy one with huge fangs, on the flask. We saw a few owls flying around on the way home and finished at 02:30. Car tomorrow.
Day 5 - 1/7/11 - Lisbon Car
Today after another lie in until 11:00 we headed to Lisbon and the SPEA office to sign our agreement forms and sort out our allowance. Lisbon is a big busy place and the part of Lisbon we went to had the odd old building scattered here and there.
SPEA’s office was an old tall building with many flights of stairs leaving you tired out at the top. We met the team and signed our forms before getting some cake.
The next stop was the airport, not to go home but to collect the car. The car was a brand new VW polo with only 1000 km on the clock. I cant drive as the insurance is too expensive for under 25’s so it is Sam’s job to drive.
At night we did the tracking. On the way Sam missed the turn so we entered the site a different way seeing frogs, mice, owls and cows. We saw lot’s of owls who now are just starting to gather in the area.
At about 01:30 all the owls had stopped flying. We decided to do 1 last check on the 4 tagged owls. This all went fine and we where about to leave when we lost the last one. We drove everywhere with the antenna out the window. We gave up on this as it yielded no results and went up to the highest point in the city of Villa-Franca. This allows a large range to be scanned to try and locate the owls. We didn't find the owl so called it a night at 04:00.
Day 6 - 2/7/11 - Bert
Since we had such a late night I didn't get up until midday. The coffee maker which we have been using as a kettle for cups of tea started to leak so we had to resort to using a pan on the hob to boil the water.
We needed to check on the owls just to see if owl 32 had left the nest or not. On the floodplain we saw hundreds (not exaggerating) white storks. We will return with the camera. Number 32 had returned so has not completely left. Next we went to the supermarket to stock up and I bought more fanta grape.
After eating tea a little budgie appeared on the car. He kept looking at his reflection and pecking at it. We asked the house next door in our limited Portuguese if it belonged to them but it didn't. Its odd as there are no more houses for about 13km. He was a very tame bird letting you get very close. We decided to name him Bert. As its dry we cut a fanta bottles base off and made a small bath for him. He stayed with us all evening.
After dark we got the night scope out and saw some bats even though everyone we asked denied them being in the area. We also saw a nightjar. We then sat around talking and tried to do some star photography but it became too cloudy.
Bert on the car |
Day 7 - 3/7/11 - Boar Trackers
Another free day in which we decided to explore, on a mini safari, the Companhia das Lezirias. We found a map of the place in a cupboard and headed to a dam which is supposed to be a site for boars and otters (although on the key they look like dinosaurs.
We got to the dam which was low in water and walked along the “beach”. In the sand we found lots of tracks which we later identified as boars, otters, mongoose and genet. We turned back as the road got to sandy to drive and looked for a hide. We found the road blocked by a barbed wire fence. We decided to look for flamingoes by the rice fields. We saw none. We did however see lots of storks and purple heron. One we even saw catch a crayfish. On the way back we saw some big bulls used for bullfighting. We then returned to the house for a relaxing evening and tea.
Day 8 - 4/7/11 - Coruche
This morning we met Ana and went to Coruche, where Ana and Inês live. The town, as we would call it but they call a village, is on the river and very traditional. While we sorted the plan we drank by the river and saw an osprey attempt to catch a fish and fail. We left Inês in town to do computer stuff and we went to a farm out of town.
Here we hoped to tag a nest of owls. To get to the barn we had to climb a fence into a horse paddock whose occupants looked at us somewhat confused. The owl was unfortunately too young so we left him after taking a few photos. He was a big white fur-ball. We found some beautiful adult feathers which I kept. We then drove to Ana’s house and saw a bee-eater. Ana’s house was very nice both inside and out and she has a big soft dog named Sebastien. We then went to a viewpoint and had a quick tour of the town. On the way back a mongoose ran across the road in front of us.
Tonight Sam and I tracked alone. At one point the guards came and neither spoke each others language so we said “Boa Noite” and went on with our work. The owls stayed put in the nest all night. One untagged owl flew at me screeching. Towards the end of the night owl 30 disappeared so we drove around to look for him. We eventually found him later.
Day 9 - 5/7/11 - Villa Franca
Today we went back to the city of Villa Franca which we had been warned wasn’t very nice. We got to the centre and found cheap parking. The place was a pleasant surprise with little side streets with cobbled roads and patterned tile walled buildings. For lunch we tried a little restaurant in a courtyard with a canvas roof. I tried sardines which still had the heads on but tasted great non-the-less. We then visited the tourist information center and found a few places to visit.
In the streets a series of wooden gates cross junctions of the main street. This is for when the bulls run in the streets. This happened last week but we may be able to see it elsewhere. We paid another visit to the supermarket and got my kettle. We then had a rest before heading out alone to track again.
It was very cold and windy with the owls staying mostly on the nest. One disappeared, owl 31, so we set off in order to track her down. We never found her but did see some other owls. One was “dancing” by bobbing up and down and then stretching its wings and legs. We also saw 2 owls mate. Before leaving a fox crossed the road and reminded me of One-eye, the wild fox I know in Cornwall.
Day 10 - 6/7/11 - Great Complications
After a lie in Ana and Inês arrived with some money, a bird guide, gate card, and watchie talkies (walkie talkie watches). They had been to check on some owl boxes and found a kestrel had taken up home in one with some babies.
The walkie talkie watches had a test run which was a disappointment and struggled at just 500m although they were supposed to have a range of 7km. We put this down to the trees in the area and decided that we wold get better results in the flat open study area. How wrong we were.
Sam and I had another night of tracking alone as Inês had a doctors appointment at night, which seemed an odd time to have one, and Ana’s son was not well. Before heading out we met the vet, Helena, who is also staying here at the cottage temporarily but due to our odd hours we had yet to meet. She was friendly and will maybe show us around.
We needed fuel which presented us with the first problem.We couldn’t use the pump so asked the attendant, who didn’t speak English, for assistance. We eventually sorted it and got the fuel. When we got to the field we took one reading, went our set distances apart and the watchie talkies didn’t work. We then tried the normal ones. They died of low battery. W decided to return to the garage once again. We found the same man still on duty. We tried to ask him if he had batteries but failed so showed him a battery. He just shook his head.
We gave Inês a call and she decided that since nowhere around here would be open at 23:00 to call it a night. In a way we where happy as we got to rest before tomorrows first dusk till dawn shift.
The other day we saw a car parked on the edge of the cops and wondered what they where doing. It turns out that the fields have giant watering systems that move around the field watering the crops and also spraying the roads. They where washing the car. We had wanted to try and tonight as we pulled in it was back in a position for us to try. It did a really good job. Just at the end of the drive we nearly ran a barn owl over. He was just sitting in the road looking at us, no doubt having watched us wash the car.
Day 11 - 7/7/11 - Alochete
Today we awoke earlier than previous days but found it grey, windy and cold, so much so that today was the first day that I have had to eat my breakfast indoors. Because of the weather we decided to go to Europe's largest retail park at Freeport. I bought here a metal BBQ for €3, not bad as a disposable one was €2.50.
After here we got hungry so decided to find some food in the nearby town of Alochete. We wondered around looking for a place to eat and saw lots of nice little traditional tilled houses. We went along the river front (which the tide was out) and got good views of Lisbon. We finally settled on a really good steak to eat.
After this we came back and rested ready for the night. After a sleep we found plans had changed and we only had a short night until around 02:00. We got there and it was the worst mosquito night ever In the fading light of the sunset we saw great clouds like smoke hanging over the waterways. I got bitten more times tonight that the whole time I have been here combined. On the way back we counted only 7 owls, a low number as we usually see at least between 10-15.
Day 12 - 8/7/11 - Night Watch
Not much happened today as we were going to do a night shift, and this time we did. We spent the whole day resting. We got to the field, this time with Ana accompanying us, at dusk around 21:00.
Not much happened other than the tracking. We had a 1hr break and looked for some food but nowhere was open. Next time we will spend the break sleeping. There where so many mossies out that I am bit over, especially my right knee which looks as if I have chicken pox.
We stayed until dawns early light washed the sky an apple green at 05:20. We drove back and hit the hay. We are off to Coruche for the weekend to see Inês play in a band. I got to bed at 06:05 with the day light breaking and the birds singing in the new day.
Day 13 - 9/7/11 - Coruche at Night
After the night shift we woke at 2pm and headed off to Coruche to watch Inês band. Ana had been kind enough to ask us to stay over at hers so on arrival we dropped off our bedding and clothes and headed out.
The first port of call was Ana’s husbands parents weekend house. On the way up we saw her husband, Rodolfo, and the first sight of him we had was him at full speed drifting a quad bike down the road. We found from Ana that this is normal for him. We met the family and Lawrenco, Ana’s son. He was shy at first but after a sardine lunch I got in the pool and he wanted to play. The house here is a traditional Portuguese farm which grows all its own fruit, veg and herbs.
Later that evening we went to the town square which sits on the river. We had a lunch of snails which where surprisingly good. Rodolfo kept getting me different drinks to try and I eventually red wine and 7up, of which he kept getting me all night.
We went to see Inês play after lunch and met her son Za. Za is about a year older than Lawrenco who himself is about 2 years old but they get on well. After the concert Sam, Rodolfo and I went into Coruche for drinks while Ana took Lawrenco home. There are only 2 places to drink in Coruche, the best of which had darts which I kept beating Rodolfo at. After here we went to a disco which was closed. We eventually got in after a good night at 5.30am.
Inês' Band playing by the bullring
Day 14 - 10/7/11 - BBQ
We all woke at midday feeling ill except for Ana. I went o the toilet and heard Lawrenco shouting me. He was waiting by the door wanting to show me his toys. After seeing the toys and breakfast we returned to the weekend house for lunch. Rodolfos whole family including his grandparents turned up as well as Anas dad.
We had a meat stew which was good then went in the 4X4 along some dirt roads to a place that translates as “Rose Mud”. We had a coffee (i had a cola) and went back to Ana’s for a siesta. We got into the house where Lawrenco grabbed my hand and led me to the sofa to put the film “Cars” on, only it was dubbed into Portuguese. After that “Star Wars” came on (this time in English) and I fell asleep (as did everyone else).
After our sleep Ana and Sam prepared tea while Rodolfo set up the BBQ. I looked after Lawrenco in the garden who is very funny and full of energy. Before the food was ready Inês, her husband Normando, and son Za who had been invited arrived. I was then looking after both Lawrenco and Za. Za is very well behaved and understands the concept of sharing but Lawrenco doesn't, always wanting what Za has.
The food was really good, mostly pork, and an egg tomato thing, also good. Pudding was a sort of Portuguese version of bread and butter pudding which Normando had prepared. Again very good food.
Day 15 - 11/7/11 - Ringing an Owl
Today the vets joined us to take some blood samples from the owls. We went to pick up Inês before heading off. Her house is very nice with what looks like a lot of land.
The first owls where near our tracking site and will hopefully be fitted with transmitters in a few weeks time, but at the moment they are much to small. The vets took samples from the wings or legs. While this was happening a herd of friendly horses came over to see what was going on. One took a great deal of interest in his own reflection in our cars window.
The next owls where bigger and the same process was applied. One bold owl flew out of the barn and away. To stop anymore owls making a break for freedom I held a sheet across the door. One owl remained high on the rafters out of reach so he too remained un-sampled.
The next site was a nice old abandoned church. The owls had nested on the stairs so I accompanied Ana to collect them, with one owl one falling down the stairs onto my shoe. The same sampling process was carried out on these 3 owls along with metal I.D rings attached to the legs. Here I had a chance to try this myself.
I had to hold the owl, place him between my legs (without squashing him), watch the talons, place a numbered metal ring in pliers and squeeze gently. I have now ringed an owl, number 35346, or by the unofficial name of Churchill (since he lives in a church).
That night we went tracking only to find Ana had kept the G.P.S in Coruche so we just recorded the times the owls left the nest. One owl hasn't left for a few days and is starting to worry us.
Me ringing Churchill
Day 16 - 12/7/11 - Montijo
This morning we went back to the military base to ring some more owls with Ana. We met the same soldier who drove us last time and also a wildlife photographer who gave me some handy tips. The first owl was the baby who we didn't ring last time on 29th June. He was now much bigger and old enough for a ring.
Ana caught the bird and passed it over to Sam. Sam then ringed her owl and named it Sgt. Spike as he had spiky head feathers and was born on a military base. The other birds we where to ring had already fledged and left so our work was done.
That afternoon we went to a nearby small city called Montijo. Its an odd place with lots of tower block apartments and a small main street. The main street had speakers along it playing music out to the city as you walked along. The whole place had an odd indescribable feel to it, something just didn't seem right but what it was is impossible to say.
In the evening the wind picked up and by the time we entered the field it was blowing a gale. It was cold but fortunately the mossies had gone. Unfortunately after 1 1/2 hours the walkie talkies died. The owls had stayed in the nest all night up until this point and I don't blame them.
Day 17 - 13/7/11 - Lisbon With Ana
This morning we had news that Ana was going to take us into Lisbon for the day. She arrived with Lawrenco as his daycare was closed, which made the day a bit more lively than normal with Ana constantly on her toes running after him.
We had lunch near the bullring where we met Anas friend who is also Lawrenco’s god mother. I had a really good prawn omelette. After this we drove a bit of Lisbon and ended on the Tagus River front where we had an ice cream. We had great views of the Tagus river and the Vasco de Gama bridge. We noticed that many of the buildings are odd shaped, like that of a boats sail.
Radio tracking this night was not at the usual time of 10pm-2am but 2am-6am. So it was an early night after returning for Lisbon before tracking. We didn’t go out later as when we woke at 1am it was gale force wind and no good for tracking owls.
Day 18 - 14/7/11 - Sommora
We hadn't anything planned today so mostly had a lazy morning. In the afternoon we took a short drive to the nearby town of Sommora, which we had drove through the other day on the way back from Coruche. We were very disappointed with the place as it had looked nice but it was basically houses and truckers cafes.
We came home after a visit to the supermarket, for more fanta grape, to lie in the sun. At the supermarket we bought a Portuguese version of a milk tart which was great and fanta pineapple which was ok but not as good as the awesome fanta grape.
Tonight the shift is again 2am-6am no matter what the weather is like we are going out. So it was bed early again to be up in time.
Day 19 - 15/7/11 - Daybreaks and Mosquitoes Swarm
The tracking this morning went very well with all owls taking a flight even owl 30 who we had been worrying about for not leaving for a while. We had no problems with equipment either. Even the mosquitoes behaved up until the final hour.
Just as dawn broke, leaving the sky a faded yellow pink with the birds beginning to sing, the mosquitoes came out in force. It seemed a lot worse as we could see them in the early morning light. It looked like the whole area had caught fire and this was the smoke of the dying flames.
On returning to the house and sleeping until midday I woke to possibly the hottest day so far. We couldn't leave the house as we needed fuel which we get from Ana or Inês, so we had a relaxing day in the sun reading. Tonights shift is a 10pm to 2am then we are heading to Lisbon for the weekend.
We did a 2 hour owl transect which involves marking every owls seen with a G.P.S point and also its behaviour such as flying or perched. We counted over 25 in this period. This was done to see if a new RADAR system should be used and it seems it will be due to the high numbers.
Day 20 - 16/7/11 - Lisbon Weekend (Saturday)
This morning we left the car in Porto Alto and caught the bus into Lisbon for the weekend. It felt like a mini holiday. In Lisbon we took the metro underground to the main area of Lisbon. From here it was just a 5 minute walk to the hostel. We Stayed in a nice hostel called Lisbon Old town Hostel.
After signing in we left most of our belongings in a locker, except cameras and wallets, and headed into town. The people in the hostel recommended taking a tram to the castle area which we did. Riding the tram was a unique experience feeling like being on a train carriage with no train pulling it.
We saw a flea market and wondered round, not buying anything but planning to do so in August if we have any money left. For lunch I had a Portuguese bread beaten with egg, olive oil and prawns. It had a slight Indian taste to it.
We spent the rest of the day being tourists, taking photos and eating cakes. We headed back to the hostel to drop the cameras off and pick up our jackets. We then headed into the popular part of town for tea which had lots of street cafes. We went to a seafood one and I tried a sawfish steak. On the table next to us we met 2 French people about our age. We all went round the town for a few hours and had a fun night. We returned to the hostel tired out.
Lisbon tram
Day 21 - 17/7/11 - Lisbon Weekend (Sunday)
We woke this morning and had a quick breakfast with some Dutch people before getting back on the metro and heading for the aquarium. The aquarium sits on the bank of the Tagus river in the more modern area of Lisbon, the area we visited with Ana. Yesterday was very hot and sunny whereas today it is windy and overcast so it was nice to be indoors.
The main focus of the aquarium is a huge central tank with lots of viewing windows placed around the whole aquarium. the place is circular so the main tank is always on one side of you with other tanks on the other. the main tank had sharks of many species, barracuda, tuna, many small shoals, lots of big fish, rays, sunfish and a huge manta ray. Another highlight was the playful sea otters. They had 3 who lay floating on their backs, playing, diving, eating and cleaning.
After here we had lunch which was an all you can eat meat meal at a place named “Buffalo Grills”. As meat came out the ovens or off the BBQ’s the waiters would go from table to table piling your plate with food so you didn't have to move. It was all so good it was hard to say no to any more. Eventually I was so full I couldn't eat any more so we got the metro then the bus and headed home for a rest after a full weekend away.
Day 22 - 18/7/11 - Evora
Today we went to Evora with Inês and Ana who had a meeting at the University. We went to a campus 15 minutes from the city at a farm location. We met the rest of the team and had a look around while the meeting went on.
The place is old with a small aquaduct and a stone age rock house (now with a barn over it) a bit like a Flintstones house. We also saw an Egyptian vulture and later found out that Evora is a stronghold for the species in Portugal.
After the meeting Ana took us into the city as Inês had more work to do. The city of Evora is a UNESCO world heritage site with many old buildings. The city is within the old walls with each street branching from the center square. All the buildings here have to be lower than the height of the church so that from each roof you are able to see the churches of which there are many. One we went into was made up of the bones of people, over 5000 of them.
We picked Inês up and headed home to rest for a 2am-6am shift. On the way back it went overcast. By sunset it was very cloudy and looked like rain.
We got up at 1am and it hadn't rained so we headed out. Only 1 owl was on the nest when we arrived and after 20 minutes the clouds burst. It came down very heavy with lightning. As its a flat, treeless area and we were holding metal rods we decided it wasn't a good idea to stay and headed home.
Day 23 - 19/7/11 - Frank
Today we checked if the owls had left the nest but found that had not yet dispersed. We then carried on to Montijo shopping mall and I got a pocket radio to listen to at night. We also picked some stuff up for a BBQ.
We then came home as it was getting close to tea time. We had a rest before tea ready for tonight. Whilst resting I heard a strange sound coming down the corridor like a tap dancer. It was a dog! Helena, our vet friend who is also staying at the house, found him in the road and brought him home. He is a smallish spaniel/border collie cross and has been given the name Frank.He is really friendly and happily lies around not bothering you (unless you have food or call him).
We had trouble lighting the BBQ due to the wind so we built a windbreak with items from around the house. We still had trouble so Helena got a bottle of her veterinary alcohol and poured it on. That worked. We added some cork wood which smelt like refresher sweets when it was burning. We put steaks on the BBQ and did mash potato on the hob. It was nice but by the time we went to the owls we wanted to rest.
We had a normal night with no problems except a 5 minute band of interference. We saw the moon rise like a giant orange red fireball.
Day 24 - 20/7/11 - Fala Portuguese?
Today we went to Coruche for Portugeses lessons with one of Inês old school friends. We met Inês, Ana and Lawrenco for a coffee before our lesson. Lawrenco ate the packs of sugar for the coffee covering himself in it in the process.
We arrived at the ladies house and had lessons there into a room turned specially into a classroom. The lesson was difficult and non stop for 3 hours but was of benefit. We now know a bit and picked up the numbers with ease, very handy for at the supermarket. We have another lesson on Friday and will be tested.
We came home and rested for the nightshift. Helena brought back Frank who still has no home. On the way to the field a fox ran down the road by the house. The last few nights on the same road we have nearly run nightjars over who seem to have appeared in force this last week.
We had 1 owl all night up until sunrise where the other 2 suddenly appeared. The mossies stayed away mostly due to the wind but as we got into the car and drove off the wind died down and the dawn team appeared. The sunrise went from pink, to bright orange, followed by yellow and then an apple green.
Day 25 - 21/7/11 - Lazy Day, Few Owls
Today was a rest day. Frank stayed with us today and woke Sam up early for a walk. I didn't hear him and he was apparently barking. The rest of the day was spent reading our books, translating the projects newsletters into english and revising form yesterdays lesson.
We got to the owls for an early shift while Ana did a spotlight transect on the area. All owls where on the nest when we got there but by the time we had set up they had all gone and we lost contact with them. Ana did a drive around but found none of them. We got a few signals every so often but not many which left us not doing much making the night drag.
In the end Ana drove to Villa Franca’s hill to do a scan and we called it a night. The behaviour suggests that the owls are not far off from dispersing.
Day 26 - 22/7/11 - Baby Badger
Today we had our second Portuguese lesson in Coruche. We were tested on what we had learnt on Wednesday and remembered a surprising amount. We learnt even more and by the end our brains hurt. On the way home we saw a telegraph wire covered in beeeaters. We rested before heading out. This week the days seem to have merged due to the odd sleeping pattern.
We met Inês and Ana who went to Montijo to buy new radios while we went to the owls. They were not there. We searched and found none. Inês and Ana went to Villa Franca’s lookout and also found none.
While we waited Sam and I played I-spy, 20 questions and the alphabet game which kept us occupied and kept sending us into hysteric fits of laughter. We met Inês and Ana and decided they would search the River Tagus and we would search the Comphania ground by the house.
We found no owls here but did find owl 29 in Poto Alto by the DHL warehouse. At the Comphania we sa a little cute baby badger and many baby rabbits but no owls.
Day 27 - 23/7/11 - Cascais
Today we went to Cascais for a weekend at the beach. We drove to Porto Alto, got the bus to Lisbon, then the underground and finally the train to Cascais. On the way we saw lots of monuments, big buildings, a big red suspension bridge like San Francisco's golden gate and a giant Jesus like the one at Rio de Janeiro. The weather was very hot and we got a glimpse of the sea on the way which was crystal clear, a surprise since its so close to Lisbon.
We got to the station and found a book shop that sold a few English magazines so I picked up a copy of National Geographic. We walked the narrow streets of Cascais to the hostel which was a ladies house in which she had made spare rooms into dorm. Everyone here was friendly. We shared our dorm with and odd Irish woman.
As it was so hot we walked down to the beach through town and past the restaurants which made us hungry. We had lunch overlooking the beach. We then headed down onto the beach. On the beach I read for a while.
I got bored reading so decided to go in the sea which although looking inviting was icy cold. I managed to dip my head under but that was all so I got out and dried in the sun. I repeated this many times to cool down, one time standing in the ice long enough for a 5 second swim.
Eventually the sun lost its heat so we went for tea. We went to a seafood restaurant we had picked out earlier as the man outside said it sold chocos (cuttlefish), which we had wanted to try. We got there and found they didn’t. It was ok as they had octopus which we had also wanted to try and a prawn and squid kebab. The octopus was a disappointment with not much taste and a slimy body.
After this we went for a cider in an English pub then to a South African restaurant. They didn't do biltong or droewors so we didn't stay and wondered back to the hostel.
Day 28 - 24/7/11 - Thousands of Fish
Today we woke up to an even hotter day than we have had all the time we have been in Portugal. We heard about some gardens and a wall by some Dutch people staying at the hostel. We wondered around looking for these. We found the walls but they had work going on at them so we headed north following the sea. We saw a dock with crystal clear water and lots of fish of varying size from goldfish size to large salmon, some with stripes others bright blue fins.
As we walked we saw some big houses, a small market and large sea caves with lots of fisherman there. We came back and had lunch overlooking a small cove. We had chocos which where really good, like squid but with more flavour. After food we walked round the gardens which had lots of aloes then came to the cove for a rest. The sea here was a bit warmer than yesterday an I managed to stay warm for 2 minutes before leaving. The water was full of hundreds of tiny fish in large shoals. I wanted to stay in longer but it was too cold.
I saw I had burnt where the suncream had washed off so we left here, (and it was too hot to stay) and came home. We checked the owls who are all back and watched the new Pirates film at Freeport cinema.
Day 29 - 25/7/11 - All Night Watch
Today we had a rest day with just the supermarket as an activity as we expected to do a late 2am shift. While back at the house Ana and Inês came to drop the equipment of from the other night and told us this week is to be a week of full nights starting tonight.
We went to find the owls at dusk around 9pm and stayed all night until 6am. We got to the nest to find just 2 owls who we soon lost. We took a drive to find them heading for the river, then the road and finally back to the barn finding any on the way. We did find them back at the barn. We did some recordings until 1:30am then had an hours sleep.
We did more recordings until sunrise finding only one owl had returned to the nest even though we know the others are around since we made contact with them during the night. We came back for breakfast and bed at 7am for a daytime sleep.
Day 30 - 26/7/11 - Night Owls, No Owls
Today I slept until 4pm after the night shift and before another one tonight. A whole week of nights, we are ourselves becoming owls now. Even though it was 4pm when I got up it was too hot to sit outside so I read in the cool main room.
We got to the site that night to find only owl 29 and 30 on the nest. Its getting dark earlier now and lighter later which means longer shifts. Not long after we got there it went dark and the 2 owls flew off in opposite directions and we couldn't follow as we had arranged to meet Ana at 9:15pm at the barn.
It got to 10pm and with still no sign of Ana and her not answering her phone we attached the antenna to the roof and headed for the gate scanning for owls. We text Ana and still got no reply then just before the gate Ana appeared, an hour late, late even by Portuguese standards. Her excuse was the printer was not working to print us the data sheets we needed and we decided to let her off.
As we still had no owls when we got back to the barn Ana took us for a drive to show us some good places to scan. We started at the river in the south then headed up to Villa Franca and the view point. We had a good view of the study site here.
After this we drove down to the floodplain on the opposite side of the road to the study site. We drove around for a few hours and found no owls. We picked up 2 at the barn so Sam and I stayed to take some readings and Ana went home looking for the other 2 owls along the river. Then we had a sleep.
When we got up one of the radios was not working so we could not triangulate the owls positions. We just had to wait and see when and if the owls returned to the nest. In the end only one owl, 29, was back on the nest when the sun was up. After this it was unlikely that anymore would return so we headed home.
On the way we saw even more mossies than before. At one point the swarm was so thick it was black, not letting you see through it. It looked like a tornado in the road. We were glad to be in the car and going home.
Day 31 - 27/7/11 - City Owl
Today i woke a little earlier at 3pm although we still had a full night ahead. The heat was almost unbearable and you could feel the dryness of the air when you breathed in. We set off before sunset to get to the nest as the owls left but Sam forgot her head torch and we had to go back for it. By the time we got to the nest it was dark and they had all gone. We did pick up a hunting signal so took an hours worth of recordings before the owl rested in a tree.
We set off to find more owls and found another in a different tree so noted the location and headed to Villa France. We were surprised to find owl 30 in the middle of the small city. We went back to the nest and obtained some more hunting data before we finally lost the owls again. We waited in the car next to the nest, the cars multidirectional antenna scanning, until sunrise. Only owl 29 came back and by this time we were ready for bed so headed home.
Day 32 - 28/7/11 - Spotlight Transect
I woke to find the house busy. The cleaner and manager had come to prepare the house for a group of vets who will be staying here. Today we were both tired and the hot weather didn’t help so we sat inside after a while.Not long before we went for the owls a workforce appeared to make a roof for the verandah. They worked fast as it was done when we got back later.
The sunset tonight was amazing with a big orange ball, that was not too intense to look directly at, dipping behind the hills. We got to the site to find only 29 at the nest but this was as expected as she was the only one to return last night. She flew away and we couldn’t follow as the petrol light was on. Luckily we had arranged to meet Ana at 10pm for fuel.
We met Ana and got some fuel. Then in Ana’s car we did a spotlight transect of the area with me controlling the high powered light. It was like a night safari in Africa and I kept expecting to see hippos in the rice fields. Ana then told us we were invited to a music festival at the beach on the weekend, that we didn't have work tomorrow and also we only had to work until 2am tonight. So at 2am we finished after finding all 4 owls.
Day 33 - 29/7/11 - Porto Covo Music Weekend
Today after a good sleep and checking who was back on the nest (owl 29 as usual) we packed the car and headed for Coruche. We changed to Rodolfo’s car with Rodolfo, Ana and Lawrenco and headed for a music festival in Sines.
We arrived to a cloudy evening although on the way it was very hot, so much so that Lawrenco didn’t want to go outside. We stayed at Ana’s parents caravan, a tourer turned static, in a small beach town called Porto Covo. Her parents were also staying here so Sam and I slept on camp beds in the awning.
When we first arrived we were given BBQ mackerel. First we had prawns and mussels as they were so filling thought they were the main. After tea we saw a giant cane toad hopping about.
We then went into Porto Covo at night and found a small outdoor stage with a rock group on. We watched this for a while then went home to bed.
Day 34 - 30/7/11 - Sines: World of Music
This morning we got up at 9am, had breakfast and headed for the beach. When we got to the beach it was a bit chilly but it warmed up after a while. Rodolfo tried the sea and said it was like ice but I doubted this so after playing with Lawrenco in the puddles I went for a swim. I found it surprisingly warm, so warm that I stayed in for about half an hour. Ana tried, got to where I was, then went back. The waves here where big enough for me to body surf on.
After this we went back for more food then into town and the cliffs. The water was crystal clear and very rough. Wild fig was growing on the cliffs as where vygie looking flowers.
We went to another beach which was very crowded. i found that while in the sea the sun cream had come off again and my back was red raw so I stayed out this time. After an hour or so we went back for a sit around at the caravan for a while. While waiting for tea Lawrenco wanted me to play football/basketball/runaround and also show me a swallows nest. Today tea was a very nice fish stew and was very filling.
As the sun dipped below the horizon we headed for Sines and the World of Music festival. The festival goes on all night with groups from all over the world performing. As it goes on so late Ana’s parents and Lawrenco stayed at the caravan. The main festival performances are in a castle with the rest of the town turned into the festival grounds. The main acts take place in the castle but cost whereas if you stay outside screens on the walls have the performance projected onto them and its free. We watched from outside and drank sangrias.
After the last performance, most of which were African tonight, we headed for the shop tents. A brief firework display went on above us as we descended the streets to sea level. Sam bough a pair of what Rodolfo called “clown trousers” which she didn’t find amusing. We each got a burger and ate it sitting on the beach. After a while the free to watch beach stage started playing music.
We watched these and they sounded like the group “Madness”. The main performance went on until 5am and was replaced by a D.J. We took this as our cue for sleep. We collected the sleeping bags from the car and headed for the beach, getting lost on the way. We settled down for sleep just as the sun was showing its first light at 6am.
Fun at the festival
Day 35 - 31/7/11 - Taxi for 2 (hundred km)
We didn’t really sleep much as the music went on all morning even playing after we left at 10am. The only reason I know I slept was I suddenly felt hot. it was as the sun was blazing away and being asleep I hadn’t noticed.
We went back to the caravan, had breakfast and I fell asleep in my chair. I was woken up by some eucalyptus leaves falling on my head. I found only Ana still awake as she cannot sleep in the daytime. The others had gone to sleeps on the beds. I then moved onto a spare bed.
I was woken again, this time a few hours later, by Lawrenco who thankfully had been at the beach all day with Ana’s parents. He had a toy Lightning McQueen car that made annoying sounds.
I got up and spent most of the day playing with Lawrenco. Sam got up after basically a full days sleep. We took a short walk to town and had snails. We were all tired again and just sat there staring blankly into space, even Lawrenco.
We got back for a BBQ of lots of meat, so much so that I could hardly move afterwards. Then Rodolfo’s car broke. The brakes wouldn’t work. We luckily found this out while still at the caravan site rather than a main road. So Rodolfo phoned the insurance company who sent us a taxi. The taxi took us home over 200km.
Day 36 - 1/8/11 - Stuck Sparrow
This morning I got up to find Sam chasing a sparrow around the kitchen. She couldn’t catch him as he kept hiding behind the sideboard then flying into the window. I got Sam to hold a towel over the window so he couldn’t see it and I pushed a piece of cardboard behind the sideboard. Once he flew out I put the card over the top of the sideboard and shepherded him to the main room.We opened the main door and stood in strategic positions and ushered him outside. He must have been in all weekend as after we left the next person left on Sunday.
It was raining heavy on and off all day so we were confined to the house. We did a check on the owls in the nest and it rained. We got back and it rained. We couldn’t go tracking as it rained. So we went to the cinema to see Transformers 3. We got back and found an odd centipede with big teeth and what looked like a long stinger on his back. We put him outside and went to bed.
Day 37 - 2/8/11 - Big Scary Dog
Today we needed mosquito repellent so took a drive to Montijo shopping mall. We got here to find a small world culture craft fair. We took a small look around but found nothing of interest. Considering the stalls were meant to each be from a different country most sold the exact same things. We got our repellant and headed home for a rest.
When we headed out the most amazing clouds appeared on the hills. Some looked like great plumes of a volcano while others had a slate grey blue tinge to them and ran over the edges of the hills like the famous tablecloth of Table Mountain.
Tonight there where so many mossies but we didn’t get irritated by them, the new repellent must be good. We took some readings for the owls but lost them. We drove to Villa Franca’s Vantage point and found nothing, then we drove to the north farm fields. Still nothing.
We stopped in a pull in for water next to an old house with a big gate. I said to Sam “Imagine if a big dog is in there” and we laughed. Next thing we heard lots of angry barking and ran to the car. Just as we got in a massive black guard dog was jumping at the gate. It scared us and we moved on in the car. We found 2 owls and recorded until 3am.
Day 38 - 3/8/11 - Freaky Things
Today a group came to visit to learn about the project. They where supposed to turn up at 6pm and we were ready for them but due to them all being Portuguese they didn't arrive until almost 7pm. Inês gave a presentation in Portuguese and showed some videos. We then went for some food in Porto Alto.
By the time we got to the nest all the owls had gone and the group was expecting to see some radio tracking. So before they arrived Sam and I took a drive to the river and back. On the way we saw a calf in the road but no owls. We picked up an owl (32) by the barn and Ana gave the group a demonstration of tracking. This took a while so we didn't take too many recordings.
Towards the end of the night on my walkie talkie I heard horrible spine chilling sounds of a woman screaming and a baby crying. It freaked me out so we went for a drive. This time the calf was right in the middle of the road and didn't move for a while. At Villa Franca we heard a pack of dogs barking angrily nearby and getting louder. We went home a bit shaken.
Day 39 - 4/8/11 - Busy Day
We got up early as Sam was catching a plane home for the weekend to go to a wedding. Ana got stuck at the gate as a truck had blocked the way and Sam was worried she would miss the bus and have to be driven to Lisbon. Ana turned up and Sam made it to the bus in time.
Ana and I then did a road kill transect which involved driving down the main road, in the hard shoulder, with hazard lights on looking for dead owls. This was dangerous as we had to drive very slowly on a hazardous road which has many accidents on it. We got to the end in one piece and then turned back to do the same thing in the opposite direction. We found no dead owls at all which meant 2 things, no owls had died (obviously) and they hadn't really started to disperse.
We then went back to Coruche for lunch with Rodolfo and waited for Inês to arrive and go visit the Cork Observatory. This is a building outside Coruche which is the headquarters of the cork industry. It also had a lab that the project would be using. We had a tour around. The whole place has cork everywhere from bowls to walls and signs to floors. We visited the labs which were basic but suitable for owl and pellet dissection.
We left and went to Ana’s to rest for the night shift. I read and watched T.V which was odd to see after a month without one. After a nice Portuguese cod meal we headed off nearly hitting a car that stopped suddenly.
At the field we couldn’t find the owls, well we had a brief contact with one of them then it was gone, so we went to Villa France and still found none. We got back and had an owl for 1 hour before losing it. We had a rest in the car and woke to find the guards next to the car. They asked Ana if we had seen another car. If we did to leave as they were not friendly. We decided not to risk it and left immediately. We were thankful to leave as we were tired. On the way to the road we saw a car coming towards us that just vanished.
Day 40 - 5/8/11 - Little Owl
I woke up late to an empty house with breakfast laid out and a note from Ana saying to text her when I wake. She came to pick me up with Lawrenco who was very pleased to see me. We went to Ana’s parents and found that one of her dads dogs had died. I met Ana’s mum and grandmother again and they gave me lots of food.
Ana and Lawrenco showed me round the very large garden. they had lots of dogs and some cute little puppies. Ana and Lawrenco went back to the house while I explored the garden and took some photos. Back at the house Lawrenco had got a hosepipe and I had to keep dodging the water he aimed at me which he found funny. We took Ana’s grandmother home and went back to Ana’s.
After playing in the garden with Lawrenco and a shellfish dinner we went to do a spotlight transect. We saw about 60 owls and a first for the project, a little owl.
Day 41 - 6/8/11 - Bad Actors (And Singers)
Today the house was quiet when I woke up but soon filled with lots of people as Ana and Rodolfo where going to a wedding and their house was the meeting point. Inês, Za and Normando came to pick me up and we went ti the supermarket shopping where we met Normando’s brother.
We went to the house where Za showed me his cars then we had a pasta lunch with plums from the garden as desert. We then walked down the road to Inês parents where we met her mother and sister. We collected figs from one of the many trees, which tasted very nice and sweet. We then went back to the house before tea and Za wanted to play.
Normando’s parents and brother joined us for a tea of snails and whelk followed by chestnuts and chiritzo then figs. I didn’t like the whelks but everyone else did. They tasted just of sea water to me.
We went into Coruche to see an open air theatre. There was also an event in the bullring with free beer. The only catch was it was in the middle of the ring with angry cows also in there, we didn't go. Instead we watched the theatre which was awful but Inês enjoyed it. The people couldn’t act, dance or sing. They had a crane there that they used at every opportunity to have people and other objects flying around.
Day 42 - 7/8/11 - Ghost Lake
I woke after a good sleep in a big comfy bed late in the morning. Much of the day was spent relaxing and playing with Za who tried to teach me a bit of Portuguese and I tried to teach him some English. He was better at learning than I was.
Late in the day we went to a woodland around a lake. I took some photos here. Inês told me it used to be a popular place with a cafe and lifeguards but since it was found the lake was filled with chemical run off from the farms people stopped using it. The buildings remained and whee falling apart giving the area an odd ghostly feel to it.
We went home and for tea we had meatloaf and sultana rice which was nice. Inês house is far enough away from built up areas to have good stars. I’d seen them last night but was too tired to take photos. Tonight i gave it a go. To my disappointment the moon was up. I tried anyway and got some nice photos which Za liked. Then I went to sleep in the comfy bed.
The abandoned cafe
Day 43 - 8/8/11 - End of a Lazy Weekend
This morning after another good sleep Inês had to go to Evora so I went to Ana’s again. The cleaner was there so I kept Lawrenco occupied in the garden. We were to do a full owl night as well as pick Sam up from the airport so spent most of the day relaxing, watching Family Guy, American Dad and The Simpson’s then reading and sleeping in the garden. I only slept and read once Ana had taken Lawrenco to her mothers as he kept wanting to play and liked my book, Whatever you do, don’t run, as it had some colour photos of safari life in the middle.
After resting, which made me feel more tired we went to the airport to pick Sam up. Ana was still tired from her weekends wedding as was Sam. Since the flight was delayed we listened to Ana’s suggestion of missing the owls for the night. Ana was so tired that she had to get a coffee from a service station before taking us home.
Day 44 - 9/8/11 - No Owls At All
Today was very hot. We got up and went to the supermarket and the car thermometer read 37oC. We checked the nest finding owl 29. While there I saw what looked like a swallowtail butterfly.
We went home and relaxed outside in the shade which my thermometer read as 33oC. I put it in the sun and it got up to 49.9oC! Very hot! As you went from outside to inside it felt like entering a freezer while going the other way the heat hit you like a solid wall. The heat brought with it lots of annoying blue bottle flies.
When we went to the field at night the heat was still high, 27oC. We found no owls all night only 31 across the river weakly where we cannot go and track. We went to Villa Franca’s view point which was incredibly windy but had no luck. The moon was almost full and lit the river like a ribbon of silver in the dark of the floodplain. We returned to the floodplain, found no owls so went home.
Day 45 - 10/8/11 - Setubal
This morning we set off early to some nature reserves and the small city of Setubal where we had heard that dolphins use the estuary. The drive there was very quick but we got lost in the main city eventually heading to where the map said the estuary was. We got there to find it was a big industrial area with lots of massive ships. We couldn't get close to the water so decided the dolphins didn't exist and drove to the city centre.
The whole city has dolphins everywhere from statues to man hole covers. On the waterfront there where even around 20 life-size dolphin models all artistically painted. I liked the cow dolphin. In the water of the harbour we saw many shoals of small fish and a few large ones.
After walking around town we got hungry so went to a seafood restaurant on the harbour where the food was cooked next to the tables. It was also all you can eat, a drink and dessert for €11. We ate a lot of good food here. We then went back to the car and drove to the hills.
The road was a high mountain pass above the sea with great views and crazy motorists, much like Chapmans Peak. We stopped halfway at an amazing viewpoint and saw a small sandy island where people had gone to in their boats. We also saw a beach on the mainland and aimed to get to it.
We drove down and came to some traffic lights that didn’t work too well as when we went through some cars where still coming up the hill making us reverse. We got to the bottom and it was very narrow and the car park was full. We didn’t stay and went back up the hill. While waiting at the lights one car decided he didn’t want to wait and went up the narrow single lane hill into the traffic. No accident was caused but how I don’t know.
We eventually found a beach car park where the attendant was determined to make us park in a space smaller than the car. Sam gave up and parked in a bigger space. We had to walk a rocky path through high bushes and low trees. We found a man who looked like he knew the way. He didn’t. We followed him for a while but it was getting so hot that we eventually gave in and went our own way. We eventually found a man who did know the way and thanked him when he showed us the beach.
I went in the sea for a while but not for too long as it was not quite warm enough for too long a swim. I saw some nice fish, some like miniature lone zebras, others in small shoals. I want a snorkel and mask for our next beach trip.
We left hot and tired back to the house where Ana and Inês where setting up for the second life science group visit. We took a much needed shower and joined the group once more to watch Inês presentation.
At the field we had owls 29 and 32 and where able to show the group us actually tracking. One of the group, a photographer who has taken photos for the project before, wanted a photo of us working. Also he wanted the airfield as a backdrop so drove us there. We had our photos taken and went back to work.
All the activity had scared the owls off. We kept looking and had a few single signals. On the way out we saw an owl eating its prey, swallowing it whole. We then went home.
Dolphin statues
Day 46 - 11/8/11 - RADAR
We drove through Lisbon to an industrial estate to collect 2 people and a RADAR system. On the way we saw some flamingo under the Vasco de Gama bridge. After lunch and picking up the people and equipment we went to the field stopping at the house for water and suncream as well as my hat.
Once in the field we drove around looking for a suitable site. The RADAR needed a low barrier in the open to stop unwanted “noise”. We found a site and set up the RADAR, well the experts did. The RADAR gives off radiation so you need to be 20m away. Ana, Sam and myself didn’t trust the distance so moved further away while Inês trusted the experts and stayed close.
The radar worked but not well so it was placed in a ditch which was perfect or as the experts said, “Nivarna”. We where given a demonstration and shown buzzards on the screen. After this Ana, Sam and myself did a roadkill transect, finding 1 dead owl, while Inês and the experts had tea.
As the car was required for the RADAR we could not track so went home for tea and an early night. We did some lamping, seeing some mammals eyes which scared Sam, before bed. Its a very hot humid night with thunderstorms forecast for tomorrow.
Day 47 - 12/8/11 - Owl Pellets
After a good, full nights sleep we drove to Coruche and the Cork Observatory lab to analyse some owl pellets. Going into Coruche a big stage has been placed in the main car park, stalls are being set up and the streets covered in sand as well as lights like christmas ones lining the streets. There is a festival at the weekend which we plan to visit and the sand is because at times bulls run the streets and its to give them grip.
We got to the lab early so had a quick drink before returning. Inês showed us how to take a pellet apart and what to look for then we had a go. I enjoyed being in the new lab and taking apart the pellets. We found many rodent skulls, mice, voles and shrews as well as a few birds probably sparrows.
After taking most of these apart Inês showed us the presentation from the other night but in English, and this time it made sense. After this it was getting late in the evening so we went home for tea before tracking.
We found owl 31 who we haven't seen for a while and had her most of the night. The calf we saw last week was still out of the field and has been for about a fortnight now.
Day 48 - 13/8/11 - An Adventure in Troia
We went back to Setubal as we knew that there was a festival there. We took a look around and found no sign of a festival so asked in the tourist information who told us it was on the peninsula across the bay. This required a ferry and a short walk so off we went.
As we got off the ferry we asked at what looked like an outdoor living room the way to go. They told us it was about an hours walk and that the other ferry was much closer to the place. So we set off walking.
The ferry had dropped us at Troia, a town/complex with only one road in and out. The whole place looked fake, very clean, modern and white, almost like a film set. It felt like being in the Sims or the Truman show. It was odd but more peculiar things where waiting.
We walked in the heat, resting in any shade we found and drinking plenty of water. We reached a gate and a guards hut, the entrance to the area and halfway into our walk, exhausted. It didn’t help that we had walked a few km in just flip-flops. The guard said a bus came and went from the other ferry and that we could get a free lift which pleased us.
We arrived and saw a drinks tent, so, very thirsty we stopped here. A very drunk man, but nice, started talking to us to practice his English. Most of it made no sense probably due to the beer. He looked like he had been drinking for a long time, his eyes where bloodshot, he had foam at the corners of his mouth and was a bit crazy. He also had spittle flying when he talked. Because of this I suggested to Sam he may have rabies and she too as she was now covered in his saliva.
We eventually got away from Rabies man and took a look around. There where 3 stalls, the drinks tent, a sweet shop ad a trouser stall. That was all and many boats. People camp here then go out on boats at night. It was very odd and seemed like a refugee camp with happy people who all know each other. Walking here we met Rabies man again for another English lesson.
We wanted to go from this odd peninsula. It seemed we were trapped on a strange island. We went back for the bus but it had gone so we had to wait 1/2 hour for the next one to arrive. We decided to get a drink which was when Rabies man came back for yet another conversation. This time it was “confirmed” that he had rabies as he refused water saying he couldn’t drink it. So he had rabies it seems (or just very drunk, one or the other). I kept looking for the bus and could see that Sam was doing the same thing, especially as the man was making even less sense.
To our relief the bus eventually came but rabies guy wanted us to stay. So we said we would just go and ask when the bus was going and he said “O.K” or something about petrol and the earths blood. We just got on the bus and waited for it to leave. I’ve never felt as out of place as I did here.
Where the bus stopped still left us a 5 minute walk to the ferry. We got here tired and found we had to buy tickets from by where the bus dropped us off. Since by now Sam had a blister I went back for the tickets. They were even further away than we had been told. The ticket place had no information or signs only that I asked a guard where to go was I able to find it. So after a 10 minute extra walk (and a jog as the ferry was now docked) we sailed back to setubal and the real world.
After docking we were extremely hungry as all we had eaten was candy floss. We didn’t want to eat on the main road as the traffic was heavy and right next to the tables so we walked into the centre. Here we found a nice little restaurant and I had the biggest steak I have ever seen. It was the size of the plate, came with rice and chips and a salad at a cost of only €10. It tasted really good.
After this we had planned on watching the boats leave the festival at about 9:30pm but our waitress informed us that they didn’t leave until after midnight at the earliest. We decided not to wait. On the way back to the car I took some nighttime street photos then we had tea and cake before coming home for a well earned rest.
Day 49 - 14/8/11 - Coruche Festival
The first day of the Coruche festival was today so Ana invited us to stay and Rodolfo’s parents invited us to lunch at the pool house. We met Ana’s cousin, her son and his friend. They were nice people who could speak basic English, except Francisco (the son) who spoke it very well and was only 14. He acted as a translator when people didn’t understand each other.
We had good BBQ food again then we all went for a swim, even Lawrenco, although he didn’t swim and was carried by people. After a swim we rested in the shade while Lawrenco and the other 2 boys played with a bucket of water and a ball. Rodolfo thought this was boring so got a water pistol and told Lawrenco to shoot the resting people.
This got out of hand with everyone soaked except Lawrenco and Rodolfo (it was ok for Lawrenco as he was a baby). Later as it calmed down we rested again which was when we got Lawrenco to drench rodolfo. He was not happy. Shortly after the gun broke which pleased most of us.
We went back to Ana’s for a snack and rest before heading into town for the festival. While eating we had a funny translation error. Za, Ana’s cousin, was telling us about a procession which happens on the Monday for the towns saint, “the lady of the church”. She said we could go to the “Big Ladies” house to see this. We wondered what she meant then found out she was on about Ana’s “grand mothers” house. We laughed.
As we got into town we found a tape barrier across the road. The guards let us quickly pass just in time to get to the other side. Lots of marching bands where circulating the town on the way to the main stage. We caught the last few only. We carried on and found Rodolfo’s parents and neighbors at a bar sitting next to the main street. We sat with them and the bands made it round to here allowing us to see them all. The whole place was nice and friendly with everyone knowing each other and wanting to meet me and Sam.
We headed to the main square to meet Inês who was supposed to be playing on the big stage but was too ill. We met her anyway and saw her sister singing. After this it was time for the fireworks. These where disappointing except for when the bridge goes on fire and has a glittering waterfall of fireworks. Towards the end it got a bit better with many fireworks all at once.
We were getting hungry but first we needed to find Rodolfo’s brother. We found him and found he only looks a little like Rodolfo and is a lot smaller but his personality is exactly the same. Then we went for food.
We ate in a semi permanent restaurant set up for the festival under the slipway from the main road. The food here was good non the less. We were told a bull was being released into the streets so we finished our meals and headed to the street.
The bull runs in the road and the pavements are protected by wooden fences. Lots of people stood in the street then fled as the bull came past. Seeing the bulls so scared upset Sam so we decided to go home. This wasn’t a bad idea as it was gone 3am.
On the way back Rodolfo wanted to show us how fast he was running up hill. I overtook him and he tried to catch me but couldn’t. This made him trow up when we got home. We were both surprised at how fast I moved.
Day 50 - 15/8/11 - Procession of the “Big Lady”
We spent most of the morning recovering from last night. After we had suitably recovered we went to Ana’s grandmothers house to place bricks in the parking space and a note so that no one would park there in the evening. The house was very big and old and nice. We left and went home for lunch, the nice cod potato thing.
It was so hot at the house we had to put a fan on. Lawrenco wanted to touch the fan so Sam and I had to keep an eye on him while Ana and Rodolfo did the washing up. He wouldn’t leave the fan so I picked him up and “flew” him to the sofa. He enjoyed this and kept running, checking I was following and kept wanting to “fly”. This kept going for about 1/2 hour until I had to rest. I had a lie on the floor mattress and Lawrenco then though I was a good chair. Ana then fed him soup while he was still. He spilt most of it on me but Ana did wash the shorts after.
Later Ana’s friends from the Algarve came round with there 1 year old daughter. Lawrenco was showing off wanting to fly again which I did for a while then he ran outside. I didn’t follow.
We rested for a while before going into town and Ana’s grandmothers to watch the procession of “the lady of the church” or as we now call it “the procession of the big lady”. The brock and note Ana left didn’t work and a car had parked over the garden gate. We got dropped off and Rodolfo and Ana’s friends went to find a space.
Ana had asked a little girl of about 10 to join us. Sam and I didn’t see her come in. Sam went to the kitchen and came back saying that there was someone in the hallway. I looked and saw the little girl. When we came earlier Sam had said about ghosts. I went back to Sam saying no one was there. She looked again saying there was, I looked and said there wasn’t. She got scared by this thinking there was a ghost. I couldn’t help laughing and gave it away.
Ana’s cousin came and we all gathered on the 2 small balconies and in the bedroom windows to see the procession. This started with the scouts then hundreds of people in single file on both sides of the street. This was all very odd. Some people were bare foot, others had dressed the kids, some had candles taller than themselves, but the strangest was the older people who had dressed up. This took at least half and hour to pass and was followed by a marching band an the “Big Lady” who was a lifelike statue being carried by four men. It was all very odd. We found out that the people walk through the town then up the hill to the church/castle. After this Ana’s cousin went back to Evora and the other friends back to the Algarve.
By now we were hungry so went to the festival for food. We met Ana’s friend, Lawrencos godmother, and sat with her while she finished her drink. Then we walked round, people constantly joining us. We settled on under the bridge, by now Sam and I were starved. We were told it was a 20 minute wait for a table for all the people who had joined us. We were happy to eat elsewhere but Rodolfo was settled on here. We looked at the main menu and told Ana what we liked the sound of.
Once seated a lot of shouting and hand waving went on and confused Sam and I. We asked Ana what was going on and she said the food was being ordered and she had ordered us ours. The food was good but in the noisy way the food was ordered too many meals appeared.
After tea we were so tired Sam and I went home when Ana took Lawrenco and left Rodolfo with the mass of people who had followed us.
Day 51 - 16/8/11 - Nest Cleaning
When I got up this morning I found Sam was ill and we had to clean some nest boxes. After a lazy morning we headed to the Comphania where the nest boxes to be cleaned where. By now Sam was too ill to go so I got changed into some old clothes and went with Ana to clean some boxes.
I didn’t realise how big the Comphania was and we drove for a long time on dirt roads before arriving at the first nest. As we approached 2 owls flew out. It is not normal to have 2 birds in a box unless they are breeding. We decided not to disturb any more boxes but since this one was now empty anyway we cleaned it. The amount of waste was huge and didn’t look like it should have been able to fit in the box. We were glad to only have to clean the one box.
Ana went back to Coruche and I stayed at the Companhia to rest. At night Sam was still too ill so Ana and I went radio tracking. We first did a spotlight transect seeing around 40 owls and a badger. We did some tracking on 3 of the owls and I found a new place to stand, on top of the cow pens. Here I was able to get a much better range on the antenna. By 1:30am both Ana and I were so tired we left. Ana had to sleep in the car for a while at the Companhia before leaving.
Day 52 - 17/8/11 - Traditional Floats
Sam was well enough to drive to Coruche to see a parade. On the way in the traffic by the series of bridges was really bad. We thought the bridges may have been closed. They weren’t and we managed to park near Ana’a grandmothers. Here we met Rodolfo’s other grandparents. Lawrenco liked my camera and was fascinated by the flash.
We watched the parade which consisted of floats depicting traditional scenes, lots of horses, a herd of cows, and Inês with her band from the balcony. This lasted for quite a while.
After this we went for a meal with Rodolfo’s parents before they left for a holiday in Switzerland. After shouting and hand waving we got the food again ordering one too many. When it arrived we just denied we had ordered it. The meal came in a staggered order with all of us finished before Sam’s meal had even arrived. After food Lawrenco wanted to sit on my knee and really liked my beard today. Rodolfo’s parents paid for our meal which was kind and we said goodbye. Lawrenco kept wanting me to pick him up and then carry him all day.
At night we went tracking and had one owl while the other channels where washed out by interference. By around 1am it was too cold to stay so we left, happy that we had recordings since 10pm.
Day 53 - 18/8/11 - Sickness Strikes
Not much happened today. We went to Montijo and I bought a Portugal flag sticker for my travel chest. We then went to the supermarket as I needed milk and tea but ended up buying much more that that.
We got back and had some of the food we had just bought before doing some computer work. We planned our newsletter and the layout. We then filled in the headings and inserted relevant photos for each section. After this the battery died so we read our books. The flies where really annoying.
After tea I had a bad stomach but felt well enough to go to the field. We got to the field and located owl 32 at the cow shed so I set up my “desk”, which was my chair, and Sam drove to her spot. We took one recording and then I was sick so we went home at around 10pm. Then I went straight to sleep to hopefully be well for the weekend.
Day 54 - 19/8/11 - Sick Day
I woke up early still feeling ill. I stayed in bed but got bored and read. Even though I felt sick I was still hungry so i got up and had some cereal. The flies where unbearable today as it was so hot and close outside so most of the day was spent inside doing computer work.
In the afternoon Ana came with and extra laptop to do work on. She also invited us back to Porto Covo at the weekend if I feel better. In the late afternoon I was feeling better except when walking. It made me feel sick but I didn’t bring anything up.
For tea I had a plain spaghetti wrap with a few peppers. Inês said that if I was not well enough not to go to the field. Since when standing I felt sick we didn’t go. Sitting down was fine so we decided to go to the cinema to see Captain America which we both enjoyed. As we left at 11pm we were surprised to find all the shops open and lots of people in the mall, more so than in the day. It seemed odd for any day especially a Friday.
Day 55 - 20/8/11 - Thunderbolts and Lightning
Ana had invited us to stay at the beach for the weekend at Porto Covo and since I was feeling better we did. The weekend wasn’t beach weather with rain and even some lightning when we got closer to our destination. We were told to meet at the supermarket in Sines by Ana who said she would be 10 minutes.
After half an hour we wondered if we had the wrong supermarket but waited, watching the lightning overhead, for 40 minutes when her family arrived with her. They had been to sell her dad’s car. We went round the supermarket with Lawrenco alternating between the trolley and being carried by me.
We went to the caravan and were fed lots of sardines. Then it rained so we went inside before heading to a beach cafe to watch the storm come in from the sea. It was a big electrical storm with white, blue, orange and purple lightning. We went for a paddle once the storm had passed. Rodolfo though it would be fun to push us all in the sand so he did. I got him back by tackling him and throwing him in the sand while Ana kicked sand on him.
We went back for a meat BBQ with what seemed like an endless supply of food. After playing with Lawrenco for a while we went into town. We had a few drinks and met people from Coruche (it seems everyone here comes from there) and went home when it rained.
Day 56 - 21/8/11 - Cloudy Beach
Today was Ana’s parents last day on holiday so we were determined to get to the beach. The car was full. Ana’s dad driving, her mother in the front passenger seat, Lawrenco in the baby seat, Sam and Ana’s grandmother on the back seat, Ana on the floor of the backseats and Rodolfo and me in the boot seats as it was a land-rover. The beach was overcast, cold and windy but we stayed. Rodolfo woke this morning unable to put any pressure on one foot so he had to hop and then eventually crawl onto the beach.
i played in the sand for a while with Lawrenco then tried the sea. It was too cold to go in past my waist so I gave up. The sun eventually came out just as we where leaving. We got back and each had a big BBQ fish which was really good.
After lunch Ana’s parents left to go home with her grandmother. After a while Lawrenco fell asleep after I tried to get him to learn the word “dog”. He couldn’t or wouldn’t and went to sleep while the rest of us rested. We didn’t go anywhere or do anything else except relax, talk, drink and eat all night until we eventually became too tired and went to bed.
Day 57 - 22/8/11 - First Goodbye’s
Today we woke to our final few hours with Ana, Rodolfo and little Lawrenco. We all had breakfast and I had one last kick around with Lawrenco before we grabbed our stuff and walked to the car with the 3 of them. We loaded the car and said goodbye as if we would see each other soon. Me and Rodolfo shook hands and patted each other on the back, I gave Ana a hug and a high-five to Lawrenco and then we were gone.
On the motorway the fuel light popped on and the nearest service station was 30km away. We wondered if we would make it but we did putting just enough fuel to get us home before the fuel light came back on.
Not long after getting in Inês came to help us with our computer work and tell us what was to happen in the week, not much. After this and tea we went to the field.
There where no owls so we drove and drove eventually ending up at Villa Franca. We returned to the barn and still had no owls. We were very tired and since there was nothing to record we headed home.
Me, Lawrenco and a ball
Day 58 - 23/8/11 - Lisbon Gifts
It was our last chance to go to Lisbon and as today had a flea market in one of the squares we decided to go. We thought about getting the bus but worked out that it would probably be cheaper to drive the car in. So we crossed the Vasco de Gama bridge seeing some more flamingo in the estuary and drove straight to the Orient train station’s car park with relative ease.
From the station we got the underground to the area of Lisbon with the flea market. We stepped out the metro station to find we where at the bottom of a very steep hill. We walked up and found the cobble stones very slippery but we eventually made it. The whole point in coming here was to find gifts for our families, Ana and Inês.
So I bought my family their gifts and we found an owl brooch for Inês. Ana had liked Sam’s scarf which we had bought in a different area of Lisbon. We saw similar scarfs at the craft market but Sam said to wait to go to the other area, so we did.
When we got to the other area we saw no stalls and realised that last time we came was on a Saturday not a Tuesday. We considered going back to the flea market but we were hungry so stopped for some food. While eating we decided we would go back, so we finished our food and hopped back on the metro.
We arrived at the market to find most of the stalls had either left or where packing up. The stall we wanted was packed up and the lady was putting the last few boxes in her car. We got to her out of breath saying we knew exactly what we wanted and she kindly got the scarf box out. We made our choice, paid and thanked the lady before jumping back on the subway.
Our next stop was the Natural History Museum. Looking on the map it seemed easy to find but we had a bad map where most most streets had no name and not to any sort of scale. After wondering round and using logic (we knew it was by the gardens so headed for the only trees), we eventually found it. We climbed the big stairs to the entrance to find it was closed. We were disappointed but then noticed a small sign saying that the entrance was around the corner while improvement work was going on on the main entrance.
At the pay office we found there was lots of areas so we paid to see the main area and the dinosaur exhibit. Once in we started to read the information signs. At this point we remembered we couldn’t read Portuguese so either had to guess what was on show or rely on the few latin names we knew between us.
The dinosaur exhibit had a few bones and footprints, even a t-rex skull and velociraptor claw, but most where fiberglass reconstructions. The stuffed animals which made up the rest of the museum where common and badly stuffed. We left here disappointed and Sam told me to visit the one in London instead. We then ate a big Pastel de Nata each which tasted faintly of milky bar. We headed for the train back and had no problems finding the bridge out.
We went for the owls and found nothing until about 11pm. Owl 31 turned up so we took about 4 readings before the radio died so we went home and put them on charge.
Day 59 - 24/8/11 - Road Kills
Inês arrived this morning late but this was no surprise. We drove to Porto Alto, got some petrol money and climbed into Inês car. It was time for this weeks road kill transect so with Inês driving, Sam recording data and me on the G.P.S we headed down the long dangerous road in the hard shoulder. We also had the radio on to try and located the owls daytime roosts but had no luck. We checked on the nest box and found owl 29 still uses it as her roost. By the end of the transect we had found no owls, a fox and 5 other unidentified mammals.
After this we went to the supermarket to get our last bit of food to hopefully last until Monday and also got the last of our presents. Some beer for Rodolfo and a “Cars” beach set for Lawrenco. On the way back we got some wine from the farm we are staying on. One for Ana’s parents, one for Rodolfo’s and one for Normando.
At night we had no owls to start with so went for a drive and found the calf still out of the field, this time with another calf. We drove back to the barn. We found owl 31 and took almost 2 hours of recordings before the batteries on my tracking radio died. There was no warning the batteries were low, it just died.
Day 60 - 25/8/11 - Birding on the Floodplain
After a lazy morning by about 1pm we were bored so decided to go for a drive to see if we could find the flamingo. Near the house we had seen a sign for a nature reserve so followed it. After a while of driving down a dirt track which seemed promising we came upon a big sign saying “Private Property, No Entry” (in Portuguese obviously, but thats how fluent we had become), so we headed for the floodplain.
At the floodplain to be strangely devoid of white storks, who on other visits we had seen vast numbers of. Once at the river we could just make out the pink mass of a flamingo flock on the far banks through binoculars. We decided to drive around to see if we could find another road further down. On the way we had a good view of a hunting marsh harrier. We couldn’t find another road that wasn’t closed off so we gave up and went to Villa Franca’s view point to get some photos.
On the bridge there was a lot of police stopping random cars to check on papers. We were glad we didn’t get stopped as we would not know what they were asking for. At the view point 2 old men asked if we could speak Portuguese. We said no and like everyone else who asks this, and we respond no, still talked to us in Portuguese. We eventually worked out he wanted us to move the car so he could turn his car (although he had plenty of space to do so). We got to the view which is even more amazing in the day and took some photos. Helena, the vet, phoned to say she wasn’t working this afternoon so we headed straight there for tea as we had been wanting to meet up for a few weeks after she had left the house we were in.
She was staying in some really nice cabins with a pool in a wooded area which is where we initially thought we would be staying. We wished we had been. Helena made us some nice food and we had a relaxing evening before going to find the owls. We also made plans to have a BBQ tomorrow.
At the field we met Inês doing a spotlight transect with her father and sister. We asked about a BBQ and she said ok if we work Sunday instead. We only had 3 recordings all night and they where weak signals. We also didn’t see many owls either and Inês said the same.
Day 61 - 26/8/11 - BBQ
The first of our 2 days off today so we finished off the last of our computer work and headed to the supermarket. Here we bought the supplies for the BBQ and a building block toy farm for Ze. Then we headed to Helena’s nice house for the afternoon. She was in work until 8pm but left her card and key under the door mat.
To open the gate we needed the card so I had to climb a wall my height and jump down. In doing this one of my flip-flops came off and I landed on a very hard and spiky piece of ground. Once the gate was open we unloaded the supplies and also a few bags of food from the house which we wouldn’t eat, and went for a swim. This was really nice and we wished we had stayed here instead of our house.
After a swim we sat around the pool reading. I lay on the hot decking reading my book. After a while we got thirst so brought over some fanta. While reading about one of Gerald Durrell’s encounters with a flying lizard I too had an encounter with a reptile, although mine was nowhere near as exciting. The heat had brought out dozens of little lizards in all colours from brown to green, the most impressive in a vivid green with dark black triangles along its body with white speckles all over. It was one of these lizards I met. I felt something on my leg and thought it may have been a fly. However before I swatted it I saw this was not the case but one of the vivid green lizards, who had decided to use my leg as a sunbathing spot. Upon seeing me observing him he shot to my foot and jumped off down inbetween the decking.
After we sat by the house reading until Helena arrived and we set up the BBQ. I had trouble lighting it then Helena produced, from nowhere, a large bundle of dry sticks which instantly caught light. On here we put chiritzo’s squid, sausages, 2 sirloin steaks and a T-bone steak. This was a very nice and filling dinner, so much so that we were unable to finish the T-bone. We did however manage to find room for the chocolate cake. It was a nice evening and a good way to say goodbye to Helena.
Day 62 - 27/8/11 - Last Day With Ze
We filled the car with gifts and set off like santa and his sleigh to coruche. We hid Ana and her families gifts, along with the parents wine, in the garden behind the moped. We then went to Inês for lunch taking along her presents. Ze liked his farm and said ”thank you” in English then instantly set to work building his farm.
Normando’s brother came for lunch too as he was leaving early the next morning to his home in Luxembourg. His parents also came. We had a mix of seafood which we all enjoyed followed by fruit from the garden and a cold version of bread and butter pudding.
The rest of the day was spent relaxing and it flew by. It was 7pm before we knew it and time for tea which was crab and bread followed by ice cream. Ze kept checking if I had finished as he wanted to play with his owl puppet and me to “fly” Ze himself (like I did with Lawrenco) around the room.
We said goodbye to Normando’s brother and parents then played with Ze some more to try and tire him out before bed.We set up the air bed and he used it as a bouncy castle. Eventually he got tired and we all went to bed.
Day 63 - 28/8/11 - Final Owl Track.
After an un-comfy sleep on an air bed, which Inês warned me may deflate in the night but didn’t, we had breakfast, one last play with Ze and his owl puppet and headed home before lunch. Inês and Normando where going for lunch at a friends hence why we left early.
Back at the house we made lunch and packed as much of our bags as we could. Things like toiletries and our mossie gear was all that was left out. I tried a new way to pack, as suggested by Sam, by rolling the clothes rather than folding them and found I was able to fit my sleeping bag in my main bag rather than as hand luggage. After packing and cleaning the rooms there was nothing else to do except sit around and read before going to see the owls one last time.
When we arrived we had no owls so went for a drive before briefly finding owl 31 then losing her so we returned to wait by the cowsheds. Here we had owl 29 for a while but eventually lost her too. A few owls landed on the railing by me tonight as a goodbye. On reaching the gate to leave the floodplain decided it didn’t want us to leave so it made the gate stop working. We had to drive 20 minutes or so to the other gate which thankfully opened.
2 Barn Owls
Day 64 - 29/8/11 - Leaving on a Jetplane.
Our last day in Portugal and it was cold, although it did warm up a little after midday. We needed the car cleaned as it was brown inside and out rather than black. So we went to the carwash at Montijo’s shopping mall. The lady was surprised at the state of the car and said it would be €20 and take 3 hours! We had no option so left it with her and went to the mall. After a final Pastel de Nata and a complete lap of the mall we got bored so sat in some comfy chairs wishing we had brought along a book to read.
We got the car back so shiny and handed over our money to go back to the fly house for the rest of the day. We read our books and finished the last of the food and drink. We dipped ice pops in nutella which was a bad idea. To use up the milk I made a hot milk and nutella which to my surprise was very nice and not too sickly. Then we sat and waited for Inês who, surprisingly, was early by 15 minutes.
We handed over our, well their, equipment and set off following Inês lead. Inês took the lead as we needed to get fuel. The first station was out of fuel so we had to got to the more expensive one at the Vasco de Gama bridge services. While filling up Inês asked about the car wash and was so shocked at the price that she gave us our money back.
Crossing the bridge we got our last distant glimpse of the floodplain where our 4 owls have spent their time with us. We handed the car back with no problems even though the cleaners had scratched the windows and Sam had scoured the bonnet when trying to remove the mess the birds had made.
We said our last goodbye to Inês and also thanked her for the experience and went to security. Here they needed to check my bag as there was a “suspicious” bottle. It was my metal flask which they checked was empty, apologised and sent me on my way.
In the airport we ate looked at the minuscule duty free and waited patiently for our gate to open. It opened and boarded instantly so that we were the last two to get on the plane. The flight passed incredible fast and we left, got a taxi, and headed to Sam’s.
Day 65 - 30/8/11 -Got the Midday Train.
After sleeping in Sam’s incredibly comfy spare bed, I got up well rested and headed down for breakfast. I found Sam in the kitchen making bacon sandwiches and tea. While eating I met her housemate and boyfriend briefly before getting a lift with Sam to the Bristol train station.
Here Sam and I parted saying we would try and keep in touch and then I entered the station. I picked up my prepaid tickets, found my platform and boarded with no problems.
Now at the end of my journey I am sitting on a train hurtling towards Exeter and all that remains for me to do is meet my family and drive to our little house in the Cornish countryside.
Final Thoughts
I have really enjoyed my time in Portugal for the last nine weeks despite my complaining about mossies and flies. All the people we met where very friendly and will miss them all, especially little Lawrenco. I have to keep in touch with everyone (by choice), and hopefully return to pay them a visit in the future.
The Portuguese are friendly, good cooks, crazy drivers and very laid back but they have no common sense. This was displayed many times but just made me laugh rather than annoyed. Also they don't understand the concept of a queue. Everyone driving seems to be in a rush but are always late which makes no sense to me.
The experience of living here, learning some of the language and working on the project have been enjoyable and valuable.
Overall it was a very nice time.
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